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Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 26, 2025

Ferry ticket bargains


Ferry company Armas is offering tickets at discounts of 30% off and up to 45% off on all their routes, including their high-speed ferry to La Gomera, for bookings made until Monday 1st of December 2025. You can book ahead for sailings until June 15th 2026. The discount is applied in the final step of booking before you pay when you enter the discount code BLACKFERRIDAYS. Here's the link to the offer in English...

Monday, September 08, 2025

The Number One Bus

Linea 1 bus at platform number 1 in Valle Gran Rey's bus station (''Estacion de Guaguas'' at the bridge in La Calera), connecting the capital San Sebastian de La Gomera with the south-west and the mountain villages of Chipude, La Hayas and El Cercado. The 65 kms long journey with over 40 bus stops (depending on demand), costs just 5 €uros  and takes less than two hours. There are several stops in the national park and the bus also goes to the island's hospital. Please note that there is only the relevant bus station's departure time given and that you have to signal the bus to stop anywhere else. You also must ring the bell (the red button marked STOP) aboard just before your destination, but stops are not generally announced. Also worth noting is that a bus or coach is not called ''autobus'' as it is in Spain, but only known as a ''guagua'' (pronounced ''gwa-gwa'') in the Canary Islands. The routes, timetables and fares for the public bus company Guaguagomera can be found HERE...

Thursday, June 12, 2025

And then there was light...

 ...and not only at the end of the tunnel.

For many years the demand for lighting of the two tunnels below Arure down into Valle Gran Rey had been vociferous, not least after a serious accident involving a cyclist in the 625 metres long tunnel of Yorima. 
As I reported in 2020 the Canarian government had allocated substantial funds for the installation of illumination in both tunnels, but it took another few years for works to be completed, and some time ago the light came on, which I failed to report up to now. 
Many years ago when newly arrived in Valle Gran Rey, I once naively walked down from Arure to La Calera through both dark tunnels at night, trying to hitch a lift down. Nobody stopped for me as they probably thought they saw a ghost. A very scary experience for me and one to be avoided even now that the tunnels are lit, as the bit of pavement on both sides is too narrow to walk on safely, and only serves for standing on, back tightly pressed against the wall, when a car or truck thunders through the tunnel.

Monday, October 16, 2023

Get a free knife just before boarding your flight


 The following article and above image appeared in Canarian Weekly last month and I'm sharing this worrying story with you below. The large knife was spotted at Fuerteventura airport, but the magazine with the free knife was probably on sale in some other airports as well:

'' FUERTEVENTURA AIRPORT: 
BUY A MAGAZINE WITH A FREE KITCHEN KNIFE BEFORE BOARDING

9/21/23, 7:57 AM  By Canarian Weekly  Fuerteventura  Photo Credit: Noticias Fuerteventura

The security policies at airports following the September 11th attacks in 2001 have left us all with frustrating experiences when travelling by air. Security systems implemented over 20 years ago sometimes require us to almost strip naked before passing through a scanner, and even empty our bags.

However, having a tube of toothpaste or a pot of hair gel confiscated seems even more incredulous when after passing through security at Fuerteventura airport, you come across a newsstand selling a cooking magazine with a six-inch knife (the blade alone appears 6 inches long to me, Ed.) attached to the front, free with the publication!

Passengers were left stunned when they saw a well-known Spanish cooking magazine in departures at Fuerteventura airport, with a ‘Dafne’ kitchen knife as a free gift available to buy and take on the plane.

At the time of this publication, the magazine is still on the shelves and there has been no comment from the airport authorities. Makes you wonder why they bother to confiscate your tweezers or nail clippers! ''

Saturday, July 04, 2020

Planning a trip to Spain ? Here's what you should do


Mirador de Abrante above Agulo in La Gomera's north (Archive)

Sadly new 'health control' regulations apply when going to Spain and that includes La Gomera. All travellers now must complete a form and then a unique personal QR code is generated which can be used in printed form or downloaded with an app. The registration form should be downloaded, completed and returned BEFORE you travel to avoid delays at airports. The generated individual code must then be used wherever you go in Spain. 
Here's the link to the official Spanish health ministry's website (in English) with all the relevant information and from where you can proceed: https://spth.gob.es

Note: All La Gomera Ferry services still run a reduced schedule which changes frequently, and health-bureaucracy is strictly enforced on arrival and departure in all Canary Islands ports, so allow a bit of extra time if planning a trip.
Also the Canarian government does still plan to go ahead with mandatory testing of incoming tourists at airports despite the Spanish government ruling this out, so it remains unclear what happens on arrival in the Canaries. Not very inviting, really, on top of all the rest of the hassle.
...and by the way La Gomera has NOT had any Covid cases for ages.

Monday, March 16, 2020

Irish tourists in Spain: GET OUT BY THURSDAY !

Tánaiste calls on Irish tourists in Spain - who want to fly home - to do so by midnight Thursday

The Tánaiste and Minister for Foreign Affairs and Trade, Simon Coveney, has today held talks with his Spanish counterpart as well as the Chief Executives of Ryanair and Aer Lingus.

Following the talks Simon Coveney TD said, “I understand the deep concern about returning home from mainland Spain or the Canary and Balearic Islands in the coming days. We have been working closely with our colleagues in the Spanish government and have an orderly plan in place with Ryanair and Aer Lingus supported by the Spanish government.”

"My Spanish Foreign Affairs and Transport counterparts have assured me that Spanish airports remain open and the country is not bringing about a flight ban. They further assure me that Spanish airspace remains open for Irish airlines to bring citizens home. I reaffirmed Ireland’s solidarity with Spain at this difficult time and thanked their frontline authorities for dealing with this unprecedented challenge.”

The Tánaiste also held a conference call with senior management from Ryanair and Aer Lingus as well as senior officials from the Department of Transport, Tourism and Sport, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade and Ireland’s Embassy in Madrid.
The Tánaiste said, “Following my discussions with Ryanair and Aer Lingus I am calling on all Irish tourists who wish to return from Spain to do so by midnight this coming Thursday March 19th. Both airlines are allocating bigger planes to the routes in order to accommodate passengers and both airlines have waved booking and seat fees for anyone who wants to change a booking from a later flight to one in the coming days.”
Key points
• The Spanish government has assured Ireland that airports and airspace remain open
• Irish airports and airspace remains open
• Both Ryanair and Aer Lingus have been in contact with customers via email and social media channels on how to book
• Customers should book or make changes to existing bookings directly with them
• We continue to advise Irish citizens to avoid all non-essential travel to Spain
• Spanish airports are asking passengers to travel to the airport in small groups and at their allotted time
• Do not travel to a Spanish airport unless you have a booking
• Anyone returning from Spain should follow HSE advice
• We look forward to resuming the close links between Ireland and Spain in the coming weeks
• Department of Foreign Affairs travel advice and contact information is available at https://www.dfa.ie/travel/travel-advice/coronavirus/

SEE PREVIOUS POST: SPAIN LOCKS DOWN...

Saturday, March 14, 2020

Spain locks down from Monday 8am

Spain has put its inhabitants under lockdown from Monday morning 8am, March 16th 2020, as part of a 15-day state of emergency plan to combat the coronavirus.
The government declared that all Spaniards and those permanently resident in Spain must stay at home except to buy food, go to the pharmacy, to the hospital, visit banks, go to work or in emergencies, the decree issued on Saturday by Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez and his ministers states. 
“Physical presence in commercial premises should be limited to what is strictly necessary,” Sanchez said, adding that crowds must be avoided, and consumers and employees must maintain a meter of distance between one another in order to avoid contagion. “I am also announcing that in order to ensure the supply of goods, the Health Ministry will be able to impose the necessary orders for the provision of the market,” Sanchez said. “The Health Ministry will be able to impose obligatory personal requisitions.” The prime minister added that the Spanish government would guarantee the supply of foodstuffs.
All bars, restaurants, conference centres and all leisure and sports activities - including cinemas, theatres, swimming pools or football grounds - will be shut down.
All retail activity is suspended apart from businesses selling foodstuffs, pharmacies, tobacconists, suppliers of IT equipment, newsstands, hairdressers and dry cleaners.
All public transport will be curtailed, with airline, train, bus, ferry and boat operators told they need to cut their services by at least half and that any plane, train, bus or other means of transport can only be a third full.
Employers will have the obligation to let their workers work remotely and judicial proceedings will be suspended.

Spain's Interior Ministry will control all police forces, including local and regional ones, under the 15-day emergency rule, which may be extended further.
The health and transport ministries will also have nationwide reach, taking over some local or regional powers.
Spanish prime minister Sanchez said the lockdown will begin on Monday at 8 a.m. (0700 GMT) while all other measures have entered into force as soon as the decree was published in the official journal. ''We will have the Armed Forces at our disposal – the Army is prepared for this.''
In an earlier move all cruise ships were banned from entering Spanish ports.

Note: All these measures will also apply in the Canary Islands.
Tourists will be allowed to return home  ...and if they stay they'll have to remain in their accommodation, too.

Saturday, September 01, 2018

La Gomera features in Irish press again

La Gomera's emblematic Roque Agando on left.
(This image © lagomera1.blogspot.com . The article in the Irish Times has several different stock images)
When I opened the magazine supplement in The Irish Times this morning I was greeted by a two-page article about La Gomera by Conor Power, published in the travel section. While this article, too, contains some inaccuracies, it does serve as a nice introduction to the island. La Gomera is definitely being discovered by more and more discerning Irish tourists as a destination a with touch of the west of Ireland and away from the mass tourism in most of the rest of the Canaries. I'm sharing the text part of the article below:

''  La Gomera: The beating heart of the Canary Islands

With the heavy iron key that looked like a prop from a Harry Potter film, Pedro opened the old wooden door and I peered down into the well. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness of the room, I could see the gentlest of vibrations on the surface of the water. Just as Wolfgang had said, it was the ancient beating volcanic heart of La Gomera. I thanked him and went back into the bar to rejoin my friends and my beer.
Whether or not the legend was true, there is no doubt that if you’re coming to the Canary Islands and looking for an authentic link to the islands’ ancient past, you’ll find it all around you on this most effervescently green isle.
Located just 20km or so to the west of Tenerife, La Gomera is easily accessed by a regular ferry link from Los Cristianos. Depending on whether you get the hydrofoil or the standard version, it will take either 40 minutes or an hour and a half.
La Gomera looks a bit like the upturned half of a huge green orange that has been broken into rough segments. A permanent rainforest of sorts resides across much of the upper reaches of the island, which are almost permanently shrouded in mist. It’s unlike any other of the Canaries that people are used to seeing, with their characteristic lunar landscapes and bare volcanic fields.
Here in La Gomera, all is lush – from the vast forests of banana trees that run to the shoreline at Santa Catalina to Europe’s largest primitive forest, in the Unesco-listed Parque Nacional de Garajonay. Along the roadsides, exotic papaya fruits heave alongside banana trees. It looks as if the island could keep the entire population of Spain in fruit for the rest of their lives.

We were fortunate to run into Wolfgang and his French Moroccan-born wife Danielle near the start of our stay on La Gomera. With three friends, we had rented a house close to the village of Hermigua on the northeast of the island, just a 15-minute drive along the spectacular, twisty and perfectly-tarred road from the main town of San Sebastián.
Roomy terrace
The central meeting point in Hermigua is Pedro’s bar, with its views over the valley from the roomy terrace outside. Every night there was a themed music night. The first was a French night, where accordion-playing singers brought many of the French-speaking tourists and everyone else out to enjoy a folk-like, convivial atmosphere that turned the place into a little piece of Montmartre.
The second night was a Cuban night where we were treated to live music from a smashing band that wouldn’t have been out of place on a pavement in Havana. The infectious music got everyone up and dancing around the terrace in the warm evening air.
The climate in La Gomera is a little bit different to most other Canary Islands too. The Canaries are known for the variation in temperature between the balmy middle of the day and the cooler evenings but, on La Gomera, you can experience cool spring weather requiring layers and rain gear up in the mountains while, by the seashore, high summer reigns supreme, with temperatures in the mid-20s and seawater warm enough to comfortably bathe in.
The next morning, I travelled north, near the beautifully formed and perfectly located village of Agulo, to a lookout area known as the Mirador de Abrante. Here, the car park ends in stunning red rock cliffs and a restaurant. Inside, the restaurant has a narrow glass floor extension to give you a dizzying perspective of the extraordinary views over the sea and colourful Agulo below.
The restaurant is also well known for the fact that some of its staff communicate through the fascinating whistling language El Silbo. Waiter Fabio was only too happy to give us a demonstration on site, asking us to tell him something in English or Spanish and then translating it into El Silbo. The language was brought to the Canaries by the Guanche people and has survived Spanish colonialism; it is now a mandatory subject for all Gomerans in both primary and secondary schools.
Quiet paradise
Wolfgang and Danielle had bought a house nearby and habitually spend most of the spring living in this green and relatively quiet paradise. After a first day of hard walking along the steep slopes of Hermigua and El Cedro, it was they who advised us to try the more user-friendly trail (10km return trip) from Pastrana to Benchijigua on the south side of the island.
We parked the hired car at the tiny village of Pastrana before heading north along the Barranco (ravine) de Benchijugua – a deep, rocky indentation where the waters flow at a variety of volumes depending on the weather. We started off at around 11am, and the weather was warm and sunny. The spectacular views towards the sea and up into the mountains were superb and the trail was well signposted and provided decent challenges for the average walker.
Along the way, we passed a number of isolated, deserted villages and hamlets before arriving at Benchijigua. It was a very quiet walk as well, and we only encountered a handful of walkers on the way. Benchijigua didn’t have anything by way of refreshing pitstop – just a few unoccupied holiday homes and a closed church – but it was a truly gorgeous spot with panoramic views in all directions from its elevated position looking down on a series of ravines and across to craggy hillsides on three sides.

The atmosphere is low-key, with a complete absence of the lager-lout brigade or the post-Leaving Cert party platoon
At this point, the weather was positively autumnal and even in three layers and with our hoods up, we had to keep moving to stay warm. By the time we got back to Pastrana, the afternoon sun was beating down on us once more. It being a Monday, the one restaurant in the hamlet was closed so we got in the car and drove down into the resort town of Playa de Santiago.
There are plenty of hotels and accommodation centres here to cater for all kinds of visitors, but the atmosphere is decidedly more low-key than most resorts you’ll find in the Canaries, with a complete absence of the lager-lout brigade or the post-Leaving Cert party platoon. Sun and sand it has a-plenty.
Comprehensive package
Valle Gran Rey offers a more comprehensive package for sun-worshippers looking for that little bit less Canary-like Canary Island sun resort, while the fine beaches at San Sebastián have the advantage of being next to the island’s largest town. This is where Christopher Columbus stopped over before his historic voyage to the New World, and much of the town has managed to retain an old-world atmosphere. It’s a place to wander around and take in the Spanish colonial vibes of its colourful, authentic streets.

Back at Hermigua, we were invited to spend an evening at Wolfgang and Christine’s lovely home – a chilled-out abode with a lot of traditional touches built on two levels. Upstairs, the tiled roof terrace covered the entire footprint of the building and was designed to cater for the outdoor life, complete with kitchen corner, large stone table and outdoor loo – all with superb views of lush mountains and blue sea and backing onto a tropical garden.
As the sun went down behind the mist-shrouded mountains, Wolfgang enquired if I had been able to witness the “beating heart of La Gomera” – if I’d seen for myself the pulse from the long-dormant volcanoes that formed the Canaries in the ripples on the surface of the water of the well at Pedro’s.
“Yes,” I said, uncertainly. “I think I did.”
He winked and raised his glass. “Then the beating heart of La Gomera will stay in your soul forever.” ...''

Wednesday, August 01, 2018

More praise for La Gomera

The article below appeared in 'Northern Ireland Travel News' (nitravelnews.com) a few days ago:

''La Gomera: Land of the Winter Sun

With only a few months until the summer rays give way to colder weather, you may be wondering about the best places to soak up some winter sun

Look no further than La Gomera, a Canary Island known for its vivid landscapes, black sand beaches and abundant nature. While there’s plenty to see and do, these suggestions are a great start to keep you coloured through the UK’s cold and grey season…

Retreats in Nature
Looking for a peaceful location to revive your love of nature? A hiking or yoga adventure is a wonderful way to do just that. La Gomera offers year-round retreats for those wishing to explore its untouched landscapes.

As you take in the sights, you can follow many hiking trails that criss-cross the terrain. Better yet, each marked path has a different degree of difficulty so you can discover the island at your own pace.
You can also opt for a local guide to lead you into the silver-clouded forest of Garajonay National Park. Not only does the UNESCO World Heritage Site brim with native wildlife, but its ancient scenery is also the perfect introduction to this spectacular little island.

Long Walks on the Shore
For many people, there is no better place than the beach, and La Gomera happens to be blessed with an abundance of them. Another bonus is the beautiful black sand, which provides a relaxing setting to residents and visitors alike.
Many Gomeran beaches are also away from the crowds and only accessible by foot, with clear waters and warm temperatures in winter. On the south coast, for example, Playa del Medio will tempt you with its soothing surf ­– just the thing for an easy day in the winter sun.
Meanwhile, Playa de la Caleta awaits a few minutes from the centre of Hermigua. This slice of paradise is considered the best beach on the north coast and has many convenient facilities nearby, such as restaurants, picnic areas and showers.
There are excellent choices if you’re travelling with kids this winter too. Charco del Conde in Valle Gran Rey is one of many family beaches that are sure to impress. Expect accessibility, cleanliness and a protected natural pool for all ages to swim in at high tide.

Nourishing Local Foods
Gastronomy gives people a direct window into culture – like all the Canary Islands, La Gomera features a variety of nourishing local seafood and healthy dishes to keep you warm and satisfied.
When visiting the green island, one can’t-miss dish is papas arrugudas. ‘Papas’ is the local term for potatoes, and because of the island’s volcanic climate, these potatoes gain a signature taste and texture.
The simple but delicious dish is boiled in water with salt then paired with a generous serving of rich mojo sauces. Mojo verde is bright green and refreshing, while Mojo picón is vibrant red and slightly spicy. Either way, you’re in for a savoury treat.
But when it comes to treats, palm syrup is the undisputed star of Gomeran cuisine. With more than 130,000 palm trees blanketing the island, La Gomera has the highest number of specimens per capita. What’s more, almost every restaurant serves desserts drizzled in the stuff. It’s also used to sweeten cocktails and add the final touch to meat and fish dishes.
If you’d like to keep a taste of La Gomera long after your holiday, you’ll be pleased to know that palm syrup is offered in almost any supermarket and craft fair – a fine purchase to take back as a souvenir.

Getting There
Fly into Tenerife and catch a 50-minute ferry to La Gomera. A short flight from Tenerife will get you there as well. Once you arrive, you can choose from a wide range of hotels as your home away from home this winter. Go to lagomera.travel/en for more information and winter sun ideas.''

Friday, March 02, 2018

Thursday, March 01, 2018

Emma left us lunchtime, but not on this ferry


Armas'  Alboran arriving approaching Valle Gran Rey's harbour today lunchtime
The 'Alboran' (Armas) ferry attempted to arrive in VGR today lunchtime and successfully docked in the harbour of Vueltas in Valle Gran Rey briefly, but then had return to San Sebastian de La Gomea soon after without discharging. Mooring ropes broke and the ramp couldn't be lowered safely even in the harbour due to the SW swell and rough sea conditions caused by storm Emma.This again highlights the urgent need to construct 'phase 2' of the harbour development in La Gomera's south-western port. Other ferries were delayed or couldn't even sail.
Storm Emma left it's mark here and there was widespread damage along the coastal fringes of La Gomera island due to the high waves. Thankfully nothing serious and I've seen much worse here, anyway. In the images below council crews are trying to temporarily fill a major hole washed out by heavy seas at the roundabout of Vueltas. Canary Islands' national TV was there again to report live for their lunchtime news program.
The weather has calmed noticeably since, and while there still is a heavy swell, ferry connections are getting back on schedule.
Armas ferry Alboran beginning to go astern into VGR harbour (above and below)
Emergency repairs. Some council workers got a soaking with larger waves while working .

Weather slowly improving but ferries delayed

Be cautious: sea conditions still very rough with a powerful swell this morning

The weather in the Canary Islands is very gradually improving after last night's extreme conditions with storm force wind gusts widely felt in La Gomera and extremely rough seas which led to the suspension of all flights and ferry connections. The highest wind gust recorded on the island was a fierce 166 km/h last night with sustained winds of 113 km/h for a time.
There was a backlog of passengers in the ferry ports waiting for the ferries which are struggling to reestablish connections and having to face extremely difficult berthing conditions, as the sea is still very rough and a warning of a powerful 5 m swell is valid until 9 pm tonight, but the winds have decreased noticeably.
Anywhere near the sea there is a haze of spray in the air and the high waves did some damage to coastal infrastructure. There's a lot of debris on coast roads, which was being cleared yesterday, but more was flung ashore during the night. Weather forecast on top right sidebar.
TV crew reporting damage live from the La Playa area of Valle Gran Rey in front of closed coast road yesterday.

Wednesday, February 28, 2018

Emma's rain and wind

                                 
Amazing video of a heavy downpour in La Gomera (Source: Bistro Cafe in Vueltas). Any idea what language that is ?
...and by the way, La Gomera is cut off from the outside world as all ferry sailings and flights were cancelled this evening until the weather improves tomorrow.
The wind even increased this afternoon with the weather station in the mountains at the 'Alto de Igualero' recording a gust of 152 km/h at 4 pm  and the one at the visitor's centre near Agulo had a gust of 122 km/h a couple of hours later, while San Sebastian's harbour had a gust of 92 km/h. Storm Emma isn't quite finished with us yet...

Large breakers today

The above image was taken this Wednesday morning some time after low tide, showing the very rough sea conditions and high waves which did some minor damage to the beachfront in La Playa and the coast road to La Puntilla (statue) has been closed.  Many ferry sailings have been cancelled. Several alerts are valid until tomorrow morning. More details in previous post...

Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Weather two-faced this afternoon

The above image was taken earlier this Tuesday afternoon looking south-west, and without moving my feet I turned 180 degrees and immediately snapped the view up the valley in the opposite direction (below).
... and ten minutes later the cloud in the third picture appeared in the south-east.
Tomorrow storm Emma's southern flank will bring more gales and...read the full story
Ten minutes later

Monday, February 26, 2018

Another cold front to hit Canary Islands - Storm Emma

Gale warnings for late Tuesday and all day Wednesday.  (Weathervane on Vueltas pier)
Updated Tuesday, Feb. 27th 2018, at 9:55 pm:
Latest: 'Alerta Maxima' declared by Canarian Government for La Gomera, Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro, and Gran Canaria. All below now updated and further information inserted:
After summer weather lasting into December 2017 (well, that's how it felt) and a prolonged drought into February '18 the Canary Islands are finally experiencing some 'normal' winter weather with the Atlantic taking over the reins (sic) from the Sahara.
The extremely cold weather all over Europe allows some low pressure systems to develop further south and to send some more wind and rain to the Canaries. The one that's going to make its presence felt here next started as major storm depression forming off the east coast of the US and achieved 962 hPa in mid Atlantic soon after with hurricane force winds near its centre, then tracked SE, later E to reach sea area just W of Azores by noon noon today as a storm of 968  hPa. Now it will slowly move just SE of Azores as a vigorous  depression of 972 hPa on Tuesday, with the associated wide-sweeping cold front forecast to affect Canary Islands later Tuesday and on Wednesday with potentially very strong winds and a band of heavy precipitation. The large depression has now been named 'Storm Emma' and will affect many parts of Europe when it tracks NE where it will absorb another low off France, and then affecting Britain and Ireland later in the week where extremely cold weather with gale-driven snowfalls is expected.
The situation for La Gomera and the rest of the western Canary Islands:
A gale warning of SW winds gusting 85 km/h has been issued, valid from 6pm Tuesday, February 27th 2018, and the gusts may be stronger in places.
A further status ORANGE warning of SW winds gusting 95 km/h or more in mountains is valid for all of Wednesday.  Tuesday just before lunchtime a gust of 103 km/h was already recorded in La Gomera's mountains).
There's also a status ORANGE warning of very rough seas combined with an increasingly powerful swell, which will be worst  from early Wednesday. It may bring waves of 5 - 6 metres to exposed coasts, not often seen in the Canaries. The warning is valid until Thursday.
FERRIES: 
The Armas fast ferry Alboran which connects Los Cristianos, San Sebastian de La Gomera and Valle Gran Rey has cancelled all sailings until March 1st due to the rough sea conditions and strong south-westerly winds.
News just in: Armas ferry 'Volcan de Taburiente'  serving Los Cristianos and SS de La Gomera, etc.,  has suspended all sailings tomorrow Wednesday Feb.28th 2018.
Fred. Olsen's 'Benchi Express' La Gomera ferry has also cancelled sailings from tonight until weather improves.
... and  I guess that ALL ferry services in western Canaries may be canceled tomorrow. 
Further temporary travel disruption (sea, air and road) may be expected Wednesday.
The rapidly passing cold front will also bring a spell of rain, heavy in places, and heavy squally showers after that. Status YELLOW warning of precipitation accumulating 60 mm in 12 hours and 25 in one hour is valid from 6 pm Tuesday until 8 am Wednesday ...and during the latter day squally showers could affect La Gomera.
Risk of rockfalls and landslips remains high. Avoid steep mountainsides, cliffs and ravines ! Also, be very cautious near exposed coasts.
Latest: All schools, colleges, etc., and all public parks, sports grounds, etc., will be closed on Wednesday. Some damage due to high winds (gusting well in excess of 100 km/h) reported from first-hit island of La Palma. Strongest gust in La Gomera so far: 111 km/h. Some flights have been cancelled, some delayed.
Above was updated Tuesday Feb.27th 2018 at 9:55 pm.
Storm Emma late today, Monday Feb. 26th 2018
Weather chart for 00:01 am Wednesday Feb. 28th 2018, when cold front is expected to arrive in west

Wednesday, December 21, 2016

There's still room at the inn

Nice double bed in a cosy cave in the mountains ready for you with fresh greens included free of charge.
(I took this photo a few years ago in the deserted settlement of 'Cuevas Blancas' in La Gomera's northeast.)

Monday, June 06, 2016

Lovin' La Gomera

Below is an article which appeared in yesterday's Irish Independent:


''The Secret Canary Island: A holiday paradise beyond the brochures



La Gomera3
La Gomera is the Canary Island that time forgot. And that's exactly why you should visit, says Thomas Breathnach.
  • GO TO
Bienvenido to bliss!  
The lush, avocado-hued mountain terraces that surround me could be in Goa. The echoes of merengue from the sleepy hamlet in the valley could be the sound of Hispaniola. 
I've never experienced such exotica so close to home - and I didn't even change my watch to do it. I'm on La Gomera, second-smallest of the seven Canary Islands, delighting in the go-slow harmony of local time.
I was cast away on the island the previous night, via a crossing from its gateway neighbour, Tenerife. The larger Canary Island commands a sort of mainland status over La Gomera (900,000 residents live on Tenerife, versus just 20,000 for the latter). Ferries are the typical way to get here, so I caught the morning sailing from the bustling port of Los Cristianos. I was joined by passengers ranging from Germanic hikers and native weekenders to an on-board entertainment troupe, fresh off a red-button performance of España's Got Talent. 
With so few tourists reaching La Gomera's shores, however, there's still an air of pioneering travel to the place. Once at sea, memories of Tenerife's high-rises and karaoke bars quickly faded to end.
Just shy of an hour later, the charcoal cliff-faces of La Gomera finally parted for the verdant harbour of her capital. Home to half the island, San Sebastian feels positively downtown compared to what would follow. There's a lively indoor mercado, small financial centres and charming cobbled alleyways which buttress its punchy history: Columbus set sail from La Gomera to the New World in 1492, and its ties to the Americas have been buoyant ever since. In fact, locals will tell you the cultural gusto on the island is more like Venezuela than mainland Spain.Depositphotos_70347747_l-2015.jpg  
From San Sebastian, I spring-boarded to Playa de Santiago, the pocket-sized coastal resort some 34km (translation: 90 minutes) away. The scenery en route is gasp-eliciting spectacular: from La Gomera's curb-kissing ravines and palm tree oases to the sight of Mount Teide, Tenerife's landmark volcano, looming across the sounds like a sun-scorched Mount Fuji. By the time I've traversed the island, I've met just two cars and a farmer's pick-up truck (a relief, given some of those hairpin bends).
The largest hotel on the island, my base of Jardin Tecina, is a cool and calm hermitage of white-washed villas clustered around a bougainvillea-brushed cliff-face. Beneath it, an abandoned beach cove is reachable by private elevator (only fitting that such a deserted paradise should have its James Bond touches). Beach-lovers, however, should not expect white sands on La Gomera: due to its volcanic nature, you'll be leaving footprints in the black, sole-scorching variety here.
Given the island's landscape - not to mention the dominance of Berghaus over bikinis, it's clear that La Gomera's main draw is hiking. The island is a Garden of Eden for all-level trails and I joined three-decades-a-local Gordo Wenk for a guided trek. Gordo, a silver-haired Stuttgarter with a thick accent, dovetails perfectly with the local demographic. La Gomera developed as a hippy commune for Americans and Continentals in the 1960s and today is said be Europe's last outpost of true boho living. "We still have a few folks who actually live in beach caves here," he says, as we wander through the flora-flecked surrounds of Garajonay National Park. Flower power,indeed.Depositphotos_52913051_l-2015.jpg  
My hiking efforts are later rewarded with a local lunch at the panoramic Mirador de Abrante restaurant (+34 638 661490; above). El menú? Potaje de berros, a moreish watercress soup heartened with pork belly, fresh sea perch with buttery asparagus and an ice-cream dessert gilded with local palm honey. Delicious! 
Almost more impressive were the waiters and chefs who chat in El Silbo, the Gomeran, UNESCO-hailed whistling language (once used to communicate across valleys, now used to place my side order of patatas bravas). There are hidden nuggets of culture in La Gomera and this one is written in the wind.
 La Gomera is a switch-off destination with a refreshing lack of choice when it comes to activities: everybody is simply here for nature. For another taste of the wilds, I take a whale-watching trip with a local operator (excursiones-tina.com; €45 including lunch). True to Gordo's word, we've barely lifted anchor when the sights of nudist hippies inhabiting the caved coastline dominate our binoculars. But they're soon overshadowed by the sight of bottle-nosed dolphins followed by a hammer-head shark and a pod of pilot whales! That evening, I retire to the lounge at Jardin Tecina, where resident pianist Anne-Tina is reciting Ludovico Einaudi to an audience of one. This is high season on the island. As we banter, I learn that she is Danish, loves Dublin, and has voluntarily stranded herself on La Gomera for the past seven years.  "Why would I want to be anywhere else?" she asks. All but alone on what must be Europe's most beautiful island, I could only say Salud! to that.''

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

La Gomera one of Telegraph's greatest 20 destinations

Below the article in the Telegraph's travel section:

La Gomera: the Canary island that time forgot

''This small island was Columbus's last port of call before his voyage to the Americas. It is still a secluded beauty for winter sun travellers today 

La Gomera: getting to know the island is like peeling the layers from an onion.
La Gomera: getting to know the island is like peeling the layers from an onion.  
The jeep juddered to a halt on a dusty red mountain path 400 metres above sea level. With a foot to spare at the side of the track, I looked down as if into a kaleidoscope that had broken open. Below was an intensely green and fragmented world of giant palms, banana trees, huge ferns and mossy boulders blanketed by flowering vines. Beyond, the colour of mercury, the Atlantic Ocean seemed to stretch into infinity. A Cleopatra butterfly floated lazily by, its yellow wings tipped by tiny pink spots. 
It was early December. I was little more than half-a-day’s travel from wet-and-windy London, and just 50 minutes by ferry from the egg-box apartment resorts of southern Tenerife. But standing spellbound on the side of that mountain, on the lesser-known island of La Gomera, I felt light years away from the chaos and brashness associated with the Canary Islands’ more obvious tourist destinations. Bathed in sunshine and silence, with only sea, sky and nature for company, I could have been in a different century. 
The second-smallest of the seven Canary Islands - near-circular and with a diameter of only 25 kilometres - La Gomera feels like the island that time forgot... Read full article...