Whistled Christmas Wishes

 A very HAPPY CHRISTMAS to all and wishing you a healthy and peaceful new year. The above short video was published some years ago by La Gomera's governmental tourism department and conveys festive greetings in the island's unique whistling language called El Silbo (click to find out more...)

''La Gomera'' shortlisted for film awards in Cannes

The 'El Silbo' monument at sunset beside the chapel of Igualero with just-risen full moon

A movie called ''La Gomera'' (aka ''The Whistlers'') by Romanian film director Corneliu Porumboiu has just been shortlisted for the awards at this year's Cannes film festival alongside films by well known directors such as Ken Loach and Pedro Almodovar.

The comedy ''La Gomera” tells the story of Cristi, a police officer who arrives on the Canary island to learn El Silbo, the unique whistled language and ancient form of communication still in use all over La Gomera island (find out more here...). His mission is to release Zsolt, a controversial businessman under arrest in Bucharest.

''La Gomera” is a co-production by 42 KM FILM- Les Films du Worso (France), Komplizen Film (Germany) and Arte Grand Accord and is listed as a French/German/Romanian co-production. The one hour and 37 minutes long movie was shot in Bucharest and on location in La Gomera.

La Gomera features in Irish press again

La Gomera's emblematic Roque Agando on left.
(This image © lagomera1.blogspot.com . The article in the Irish Times has several different stock images)

When I opened the magazine supplement in The Irish Times this morning I was greeted by a two-page article about La Gomera by Conor Power, published in the travel section. While this article, too, contains some inaccuracies, it does serve as a nice introduction to the island. La Gomera is definitely being discovered by more and more discerning Irish tourists as a destination a with touch of the west of Ireland and away from the mass tourism in most of the rest of the Canaries. I'm sharing the text part of the article below:

''  La Gomera: The beating heart of the Canary Islands

With the heavy iron key that looked like a prop from a Harry Potter film, Pedro opened the old wooden door and I peered down into the well. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness of the room, I could see the gentlest of vibrations on the surface of the water. Just as Wolfgang had said, it was the ancient beating volcanic heart of La Gomera. I thanked him and went back into the bar to rejoin my friends and my beer.

Whether or not the legend was true, there is no doubt that if you’re coming to the Canary Islands and looking for an authentic link to the islands’ ancient past, you’ll find it all around you on this most effervescently green isle.

Located just 20km or so to the west of Tenerife, La Gomera is easily accessed by a regular ferry link from Los Cristianos. Depending on whether you get the hydrofoil or the standard version, it will take either 40 minutes or an hour and a half.

La Gomera looks a bit like the upturned half of a huge green orange that has been broken into rough segments. A permanent rainforest of sorts resides across much of the upper reaches of the island, which are almost permanently shrouded in mist. It’s unlike any other of the Canaries that people are used to seeing, with their characteristic lunar landscapes and bare volcanic fields.

Here in La Gomera, all is lush – from the vast forests of banana trees that run to the shoreline at Santa Catalina to Europe’s largest primitive forest, in the Unesco-listed Parque Nacional de Garajonay. Along the roadsides, exotic papaya fruits heave alongside banana trees. It looks as if the island could keep the entire population of Spain in fruit for the rest of their lives.

We were fortunate to run into Wolfgang and his French Moroccan-born wife Danielle near the start of our stay on La Gomera. With three friends, we had rented a house close to the village of Hermigua on the northeast of the island, just a 15-minute drive along the spectacular, twisty and perfectly-tarred road from the main town of San Sebastián.

Roomy terrace

The central meeting point in Hermigua is Pedro’s bar, with its views over the valley from the roomy terrace outside. Every night there was a themed music night. The first was a French night, where accordion-playing singers brought many of the French-speaking tourists and everyone else out to enjoy a folk-like, convivial atmosphere that turned the place into a little piece of Montmartre.

The second night was a Cuban night where we were treated to live music from a smashing band that wouldn’t have been out of place on a pavement in Havana. The infectious music got everyone up and dancing around the terrace in the warm evening air.

The climate in La Gomera is a little bit different to most other Canary Islands too. The Canaries are known for the variation in temperature between the balmy middle of the day and the cooler evenings but, on La Gomera, you can experience cool spring weather requiring layers and rain gear up in the mountains while, by the seashore, high summer reigns supreme, with temperatures in the mid-20s and seawater warm enough to comfortably bathe in.

The next morning, I travelled north, near the beautifully formed and perfectly located village of Agulo, to a lookout area known as the Mirador de Abrante. Here, the car park ends in stunning red rock cliffs and a restaurant. Inside, the restaurant has a narrow glass floor extension to give you a dizzying perspective of the extraordinary views over the sea and colourful Agulo below.

The restaurant is also well known for the fact that some of its staff communicate through the fascinating whistling language El Silbo. Waiter Fabio was only too happy to give us a demonstration on site, asking us to tell him something in English or Spanish and then translating it into El Silbo. The language was brought to the Canaries by the Guanche people and has survived Spanish colonialism; it is now a mandatory subject for all Gomerans in both primary and secondary schools.

Quiet paradise

Wolfgang and Danielle had bought a house nearby and habitually spend most of the spring living in this green and relatively quiet paradise. After a first day of hard walking along the steep slopes of Hermigua and El Cedro, it was they who advised us to try the more user-friendly trail (10km return trip) from Pastrana to Benchijigua on the south side of the island.

We parked the hired car at the tiny village of Pastrana before heading north along the Barranco (ravine) de Benchijugua – a deep, rocky indentation where the waters flow at a variety of volumes depending on the weather. We started off at around 11am, and the weather was warm and sunny. The spectacular views towards the sea and up into the mountains were superb and the trail was well signposted and provided decent challenges for the average walker.

Along the way, we passed a number of isolated, deserted villages and hamlets before arriving at Benchijigua. It was a very quiet walk as well, and we only encountered a handful of walkers on the way. Benchijigua didn’t have anything by way of refreshing pitstop – just a few unoccupied holiday homes and a closed church – but it was a truly gorgeous spot with panoramic views in all directions from its elevated position looking down on a series of ravines and across to craggy hillsides on three sides.

The atmosphere is low-key, with a complete absence of the lager-lout brigade or the post-Leaving Cert party platoon

At this point, the weather was positively autumnal and even in three layers and with our hoods up, we had to keep moving to stay warm. By the time we got back to Pastrana, the afternoon sun was beating down on us once more. It being a Monday, the one restaurant in the hamlet was closed so we got in the car and drove down into the resort town of Playa de Santiago.

There are plenty of hotels and accommodation centres here to cater for all kinds of visitors, but the atmosphere is decidedly more low-key than most resorts you’ll find in the Canaries, with a complete absence of the lager-lout brigade or the post-Leaving Cert party platoon. Sun and sand it has a-plenty.

Comprehensive package

Valle Gran Rey offers a more comprehensive package for sun-worshippers looking for that little bit less Canary-like Canary Island sun resort, while the fine beaches at San Sebastián have the advantage of being next to the island’s largest town. This is where Christopher Columbus stopped over before his historic voyage to the New World, and much of the town has managed to retain an old-world atmosphere. It’s a place to wander around and take in the Spanish colonial vibes of its colourful, authentic streets.

Back at Hermigua, we were invited to spend an evening at Wolfgang and Christine’s lovely home – a chilled-out abode with a lot of traditional touches built on two levels. Upstairs, the tiled roof terrace covered the entire footprint of the building and was designed to cater for the outdoor life, complete with kitchen corner, large stone table and outdoor loo – all with superb views of lush mountains and blue sea and backing onto a tropical garden.

As the sun went down behind the mist-shrouded mountains, Wolfgang enquired if I had been able to witness the “beating heart of La Gomera” – if I’d seen for myself the pulse from the long-dormant volcanoes that formed the Canaries in the ripples on the surface of the water of the well at Pedro’s.

“Yes,” I said, uncertainly. “I think I did.”

He winked and raised his glass. “Then the beating heart of La Gomera will stay in your soul forever.” ...''

Praise from Britain

                    '' Head to La Gomera for gorgeous scenery / Getty Images/iStockphoto '' (The Independent)

''It’s the most depressing day of the year, so here are some of the 

best short breaks to beat the January blue''

...'' Best for winter sun: La Gomera

The Canary Islands are as varied in climate as they are in style. Those seeking warm winter weather may want to head to Tenerife, which rarely dips below 17 degrees and is fast becoming a foodie hotspot.

La Gomera, meanwhile, is much quieter and easy to reach from Tenerife and La Palma. The second smallest of the main islands, it's ideal for hiking, discovering the unique Silbo Gomera "whistling language" and quaffing wines from some of Europe’s oldest vines. ''...

Above image and text are from a recent article on 'Blue Monday' which appeared in the UK daily The Independent  on January 15th, 2018.

BLUE MONDAY: TOP 10 WEEKEND BREAKS TO ESCAPE SADDEST DAY OF THE YEAR

The unique whistled language of La Gomera

Above UNESCO video is still one of the best introductions to El Silbo, La Gomera's unique whistled language. It was released by the organisation when El Silbo became recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009. Click El Silbo to find out more...

Another UK newspaper features La Gomera

Large UK daily The Mirror published a nice feature about La Gomera written by Jaqui Thake in its travel section just a few days ago. I've posted most of it below and hope you can spot the few forgivable errors the author made:

''Island paradise of La Gomera is worth so much more than just a whistle-stop tour

Tall order: Dizzy diners look over the sea to Tenerife

''I have received a few whistles in my day – albeit many years ago – but never one as shrill and censorious as this. At the time I was driving in a pitch-black tunnel through a mountain in La Gomera. Loosely translated it meant: “For heaven’s sake, put your bleeping lights on!”

Whistling, as I will explain later, is a very important part of the island’s culture, but right then it only added to my stress

Of course, I would have put the blinking lights on, had I been able to find the switch. But I’d only been in the unfamiliar hire car for a short while and I was still trying to get to grips with driving on the wrong side of the road while negotiating continuous hairpin bends on precipitous mountain roads edged with sheer vertical plunges.

Hubby Tom was no help ­whatsoever. I could feel his fear as he sat rigidly hanging on for dear life – with both hands – to the handle above the door. Through tight, terrified lips he whined about how I should have left him on his sunbed...

Driving around this unique and fascinating island in the Canaries can only be described as ear-popping, heart-stopping and jaw-dropping. 

If you’re looking for discos, drinking orgies, fast-food outlets, tattoo parlours and bright lights (OK, I could have done with some in the tunnel) then La Gomera is not for you.

Scenic: The picturesque town of Agulo

There are no McDonald’s, there’s not even a single traffic light. But there are some of the most stunningly arresting views you’ll see anywhere. Craggy volcanic mountains, dense forests and black sandy beaches all paint a dramatic picture.

Even Tom had to admit it was worth the “discomfort” of my driving to experience this raw and wild adventure

We were told that La Gomera – which as the crow flies measures a mere 15 miles across (although it climbs to nearly 5,000ft) – has as many as 400 microclimates. I’m pretty sure we encountered all 400.

One minute we were driving through blazing sunshine, the next we would be shrouded in mist. Further up, or down, the road we’d be rocked by a furious wind or a sudden burst of torrential rain.

But it all added to the excitement. And only intensified the exhilaration of reaching probably the most sensational viewpoint on the island – from the Mirador de Abrante restaurant. Here we were given the best table in the house, right next to the overhanging glass balcony from which you can look literally straight down on to the cute town of Agulo, 1,300ft below, and across the sea to La Gomera’s big brother, Tenerife.

Height-phobic Tom sat with his back against the wall, refusing to budge any closer to the glass. He muttered something about already being on enough of a high holidaying with me. But it was a beautiful clear day so when he plucked up courage to open his eyes, he was rewarded with an outstanding view of Tenerife’s imposing volcano Teide.

But he shuddered as I followed a large group of “well-eaten” (as the locals put it) German tourists out on to the balcony as they gleefully jumped up and down on the glass floor.

However, he was compensated with a tasty traditional lunch of cress soup, fresh fish and an egg custard desert, plus delicious local wine. All the while we felt as if we were flying – along with the paragliders swooping and soaring as they jumped off a nearby cliff.

During lunch we learned more about the island’s ancient ­communication through whistling. This extraordinary language, called the Silbo Gomera, was developed centuries ago to cope with the difficult geography. ­Whistling carries much further than shouting. It can be heard up to two miles away.

Unspoiled: La Gomera is unlike any of the other Canary Islands

It almost died out some years ago, but since 1999 has been a compulsory subject in school, and has even merited the protection of UNESCO. Nowadays almost all the island’s 22,000 population understand it and many still practise it, particularly during festivities and ceremonies.

It’s very sophisticated, as demonstrated by our two waiters. One was sent outside while the other whistled to him: “Come back in and retrieve the pen from the pocket of the wimp in the checked shirt cowering against the wall.” Which he duly did.

The language is also very useful to express tunnel road rage.

Back on the road, we roamed all over the island. We were based for the first three days on the east coast in the main tourist area of Valle Gran Rey before making our way back to the capital, San Sebastian, for the last two days.

Our travels took us through the lush national park full botanical wonders, and north to Agulo where we stopped for a delicious tapas lunch at Restaurante La Vieja Escula. 

Another day we headed south to Playa de Santiago for lunch at the posh Hotel Jardin Tecina – beyond scrumptious.

Romantic Tom was upset that we didn’t have time to enjoy the hotel’s special dining experience in a real cave set in a hill. It’s so private dinner is delivered by basket on a cable. The cave is well furnished – it even has a huge bed. One wonders why, as you can’t stay overnight…

To further ensure we went home looking “well eaten”, we can recommend the delicious meal of fresh tuna, Canarian potatoes and salad served at sea while whale-watching aboard the Tina.

It was thrilling enough to see around a dozen Pilot whales and several Bottlenose dolphins. But we were totally overwhelmed when a pod of around 200 exuberant Atlantic spotted dolphins chose to leap around our boat.

If only I could whistle, it would be a piercing one in appreciation of all that La Gomera has to offer. We had a blast. ''    (www.mirror.co.uk)

Majesty back in Valle Gran Rey

Valle Gran Rey in La Gomera's southwest saw the arrival of the first cruise ship this winter season yesterday morning. Once again the 679ft 'Thomson Majesty'' paid a visit to the harbour of Vueltas with her mostly British passengers. The cruise liner with a maximum capacity of 1.970 passengers had been here before last year and yesterday docked at 7.30 am to the sound of Canarian folk music and El Silbo whistling, organised by the local administration to greet the passengers. A free shuttle bus was offered to visit the distinct parts of the lower Valle Gran Rey area and the music was moved around the different 'barrios' as well. 'Her Majesty' left again at 2pm, bound for Madeira with many souvenirs bought here aboard. Some shops even completely sold out their stocks of bottled water as it was a hot day. I met some Irish passengers who told me that their short visit here was a  great discovery and they now plan to return for a longer holiday on La Gomera.

No Valle Luna festival but there is live music again

Keep an eye
out for posters!

Mainly due to the lack of support by the local administration and due to the many ludicrous regulations being enforced to the last letter, there's no Valle Luna festival this year. The popular event drew large crowds and many international entertainers in recent years, but sadly could not be repeated this year. 

However many musicians and visitors came all the same and there are plenty of low-key events taking place in several venues, as well as spontaneous street performances scattered throughout the lower parts of Valle Gran Rey.

 The recently taken images posted here show just a few of them.

 Regular visitors: Gomera Street Band in action (above)

El Solbo demonstration

Street festival in La Calera

Tomorrow Saturday the 6th of December 2014 there will be a small street festival in the narrow lanes of La Calera, the oldest part of Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera. On offer will be food and drink, arts and crafts, workshops including El Silbo whistling, and live music. The event will start at 4 pm and all are welcome. The best way to get to it is to climb the steps between the juice bar Carlos (best selection of fresh juices on the island, by the way) and the town hall and then left up lots of steps more behind the town hall and you'll arrive in the centre of the festival where you'll be glad to get that drink. 

Learn La Gomera's El Silbo for free

BUSUU.COM is offering free online courses to learn the whistled language unique to La Gomera and become silbador . Here's their Cannes-award winning promotional video:

Can you whistle a poem in English ?

El Silbo teacher Jesus,  here whistling
 it skilfully without the use of his hands

That's the question posed by poet Albert Pellicer of the Contemporary Poetic Research Centre of the Royal Halloway University of London. The professor and author has written a poem called Breath of Sense which explores the El Silbo whistling language of La Gomera and for quite some time he'd been hoping to try if this poem could be whistled in the El Silbo language. He's now teamed up with the singer/songwriter and El Silbo master Rogelio Botanz and travelled to La Gomera to put it to the test here. With the financial support of La Gomera's local government six students from Tenerife travelled to La Gomera to interpret the poem through El Silbo. The artist Helen Petts will compile a video of the experiment with the landscape of La Gomera that gave rise to El silbo as a dramatic backdrop. The video is being shot for the universities of Kingston and Birkbeck who also do contemporary poetics research in collaboration with Pellicer. The group is due to leave today to publish their findings.

Well, if you've ever been on one of the excursion tours on La Gomera you'd know that the El Silbo demonstration given during the lunch stop always includes whistling in whatever language the guests want and the whistler will gladly whistle even your name, no matter how complicated. El Silbo whistles are phonetic and can be employed in any language, as words and phrases are formed by the varying pitch of the whistling. On La Gomera, the whistling is quite complicated, with varying lengths, ranges, pauses and emphasis on vowels and consonants.

The outcome of this new poetic experiment can only be positive and it will foster the interest in this ancient form of communication internationally even on an academic level.

El Silbo featured in Daily Mail article and in video

La Gomera's whistled language El Silbo is featured in a recent article of the Daily Mail which includes the video below produced by the government of the Canaries. Read it HERE and see my previous post on the subject El Silbo - La Gomera's Unique Language

La Gomera's whistled language with a French twist

French mandolin player, singer and composer Feloche has released an EP called 'Mythology' which features the whistled language of La Gomera, El Silbo, on one of the tracks ('Silbo'). Below a video with pictures of La Gomera which features the new composition. Feloche's website is HERE

El Silbo - La Gomera's Unique Language

'El Silbo', also known as 'Silbo Gomero', is the ancient and still practised unique other language of La Gomera. The name is derived from the Spanish word for whistling, 'silbar', and it is a language in its own right and not simply a whistled form of Spanish. You can even whistle in almost any other spoken language using El Silbo. It probably evolved to enable communication across the island's ravine-ridden terrain during the approx. 1500 years the original  inhabitants had the island to themselves. El Silbo is not practised on any of the other Canary Islands and somewhat similar whistled communication in the rest of the world is nowhere near as refined, or long forgotten if it ever existed.

El Silbo being whistled  © informacioncanarias.com

El Silbo consists of vowels and consonants that are whistled involving a technique that uses the fingers of one hand and the tongue to produce different whistling sounds. The intonation is controlled by the tongue, and the cup of the free hand is used to modulate the sound. The resulting communication is that loud that it can travel for a couple of miles across the mountainous terrain, but it sounds amazingly pleasant to the ear even if you stand close to the whistler. Messages and gossip can thus be passed rapidly from valley to valley and right across the island, saving strenuous walks - and there's never a flat battery or a gap in reception to worry about. Mobile phones and modern roads did however lead to a decline in the use of El Silbo and a few years ago the whistling language was made a compulsory subject in the schools of La Gomera to save it from extinction. The move has proven quite popular and even the homework is done without complaint. 

Here's a link to a recent article on El Silbo in the 'BBC News Magazine', complete with video and sound samples:  http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20953138

and here's a short documentary with English subtitles: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJleFNqQ32M