Canaries in the Canaries

A wild canary taking the evening sun on a tree in La Gomera, Canary Islands. (Picture: Damien Enright/Irish Examiner

I overheard the following conversation in a pub in rural Ireland yesterday:

''I'm just back from a holiday in La Gomera''
"Where is that ?''
''Oh, it's one of the Canary Islands - but strangely I didn't spot any canaries there.''
''That's peculiar. I am just back from a holiday in the Virgin Islands...
- and I didn't find any canaries there either.''

Local election results La Gomera 2019

Casimiro Curbelo

The independent La Gomera socialist ASG party of the island's president Casimiro Curbelo (image on top) was the clear winner in the recent local elections, followed by the socialist PSOE. The graphics below (source: gomeraverde.es) first show the results for the election to La Gomera's cabildo (island government) followed by the results in all five municipal areas of La Gomera, where in some it is not clear yet who will form the new local government ('escaños' = seats). Left environmental group SSP (Si Se Puede) won two seats for the first time in Valle Gran Rey and Vallehermoso as well as one in San Sebastian de La Gomera, plus two seats in the cabildo.

                                                                             CABILDO:

MUNICIPAL AREAS:

Epiphany fiesta programme 2019

In Spain and some Latin American countries, the 6th of January is called El Día de los Reyes (The Day of the Kings). It marks the day when the Three Kings or Magi, as related in the second chapter of the gospel of Matthew, arrived to worship and bring their gifts to the baby Jesus after following a star in the sky.  In Spanish tradition on January 6th (Epiphany) the kings  Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar (representing Arabia, the Orient, and Africa) arrived on horse, camel and elephant, bringing respectively gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus. Children (and many adults) polish and leave their shoes ready for the Kings' presents before they go to bed on the eve of January 6. The next morning presents will appear under their shoes as the kings  take the role of Santa Claus here. Most towns in Spain arrange colorful parades representing the arrival of the Reyes Magos to town a day or two before, so children can see them on their camels or carriages and hand them letters listing their wishes.  Wine, snacks, fruit and milk are left for the Kings and their camels. In Spain, children typically receive presents on this day, rather than on Christmas day, though this tradition has changed a bit in recent years, and children now receive presents on both days.

In Valle Gran Rey the Kings begin their tour in the mountain village of Las Hayas on Jan. 5th at late afternoon and then continue through all the villages and barrios of the valley to collect the letters addressed to them with their wish list.

V.G.R.'s oldest church is in El Guro and dedicated to Los Reyes. Every year the Fiesta de Los Reyes in honour of them takes place there and this year the proceedings begin on Jan. 6th when the 'Ramo' (an elaborate offering of local agricultural produce) is made in the morning at the cultural centre in La Calera, from where the procession to the chapel of Los Reyes starts at midday with the typical dance steps and chants. After arrival there's a mass in the chapel in El Guro followed by folk music and later dancing to the usual salsa bands and general partying until the early hours of the following day. The usual food and drink stalls will have plenty of stock...

The great fiesta is over

After a final few rounds anticlockwise around the idyllically-situated chapel in El Guro (below) in Valle Gran Rey, the statue of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes (above) is now back home inside her sanctuary, ending a month of processions, festivities and fiestas. The images were taken on Saturday Dec. 6th 2018 which is the most important day of this Bajada, which is celebrated every five years. The prayers were heard and a few light showers ensued, but the ragged-looking bunting shows how windy it was over the past weekend.

New crown, new year

As part of the VII Bajada Fiestas, the statue of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes receiced a new golden crown during the open air mass before the folklore festival at the bus station yesterday. A first for me: 'Attending' mass while drinking beer at the bar, from where I took these images.

By the way, the main New Year's Eve fiesta of Valle Gran Rey takes place in La Playa this year. There are fiestas to count in the new year in the main towns of all the municipal areas of La Gomera with the usual salsa bands and open air dancing tonight, but there will be lots of other parties, too...

Yesterday's open air mass

Folk Fiesta

This Saturday, 30th Dec. 2017, there will be a day of Canary Islands folk music held in honour of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes with four participating folklore groups from Tenerife, Lanzarote, and La Gomera and is part of the VII Bajada fiesta. The event is free of charge and will start around midday behind the bus station near the bridge in La Calera, Valle Gran Rey.

...and she's going down again

The great fiesta continues and so do the processions. Just a short while ago Nuestra Sñora de Los Reyes passed over the bridge in Valle Gran Rey to spend a while in the lower parts of the valley east of it, continuing her BAJADA of 2017/18 program (click for more). Apologies for the poor quality mobile phone images.

Bang, bang, here she comes

After having been processed through all the mountain villages of Valle Gran Rey, Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes arrived back in the lower Valley last night where she will have a well deserved rest in the little chapel in El Chorro (La Calera)  before continuing down to the next large fiesta in La Playa. All is part of the bajada, the great fiesta which goes on until Jan. 8th 2018. As usual, there was a feast spread out for all those attending the event and exploding rockets illuminated the night sky, welcoming her with with loud bangs amplified by the surrounding cliffs. Sorry about the shaky image, but more rockets were exploding close behind me...

The great fiesta begins

...here in Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera with a special fiesta of our patron saint 'Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes' in earnest this weekend and will continue until the 7th of January 2018 ! 'Los Reyes' (Epiphany) is also the celebration of Christmas in the Canaries and X-mas presents are given on that day, Jan. 6th. 

This year It is the 'bajada' which is celebrated only every 5 years and means that the image and the statue of the saint is going to be taken from the church in El Guro to be processed through every hamlet and part of the parish and staying temporarily in many different churches and chapels. Some associated events like a torch run have already taken place in preparation for the month-long event.

The processions are noisy affairs with loud firecrackers being shot into the air along the route. A traditional dance is being performed by many worshippers during the processions, accompanied by 'chacaras y tambores', the former being a locally made very large type of castanets, of which there is a 'male' and a 'female', the 'female' having a slightly higher pitch. The 'tambores' are homemade goatskin drums with a muted snare sound.The percussion beats a steady, restrained rhythm that could put you almost into a trance.To all this the participants chant a repetitive song that has a distinctly North African feel and probably originates in pre-Christian times. So the processions go from place to place, stopping here and there for prayers, followed by shouts of 'VIVA...'

Ahead of the processions, and even ahead of the statue of the saint, the 'ramo' is being carried which is an artfully bound bouquet of fruit and vegetables of considerable weight, and even the fabrication of this offering is celebrated with music, food and drink by the volunteers and onlookers. 

Culture aside, the fiesta is a perfect occasion for just having a good time. The secular parts of the proceedings usually begin after mass and mostly start with Canarian folk music followed on stage by salsa and merengue bands  who play for the dancers and revellers until the early hours of the morning through professional (and loud) sound equipment, often even until the sun has risen. Stalls serve food and drink throughout the proceedings and young and old are having a party.

The main programme for the 'bajada' 2017/18 can be found here: VII Bajada

Another drowning at Playa del Ingles

News just in: A 45 year old man has drowned at the notoriously dangerous Playa del Ingles beach in western Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera this afternoon. Police and an ambulance were at the scene.
I always advise people not to swim at this idyllic beach even in calm conditions as there can be dangerous currents anytime. The exact circumstances of this latest drowning there are not yet known, but there is a fairly strong swell today, which further increases the risks there even if you only go in knee-deep. Many people have died at this beach over the years, including trained rescue personnel. 

The new municipal mayors of La Gomera

Angel Piñero of  Valle Gran Rey (Image: gomeranoticias.com)

Valle Gran Rey: 

Angel Piñero has been elected mayor of this municipal area on La Gomera last Saturday. His Coalicion Canaria party came out strongest in the recent local elections, winning four of the eleven seats on the local council but unable to gain a majority. However, his candidature was supported by all but the two Si Se Puede councillors and it now appears he will form a minority local government with the support of most elected councillors.

The other 5 municipal mayors on La Gomera were elected as follows:

San Sebastian de La Gomera: 

Now ruled by the new socialist party ASG (6 seats)  in coalition with Antonio Luis Arteaga of Nueva Canarias (1 seat) with Adasat Reyes  of the ASG as mayor. 

Vallehermoso: 

Emiliano Coello of the ASG elected mayor with absolute majority held by the ASG.

Agulo: 

Rosa Chinea (ASG) is new mayor, also with absolute majority of the seats held by her party.

Hermigua: 

Pedro Negrín of CC (2 seats) elected mayor, forming local government in coalition with ASG (2 seats) and PSOE (1seat). Former mayor Solveida Clemente's party is now in opposition with four seats.

Alajeró: 

Manuel Ramón Plasencia of the Spanish Labour Party PSOE managed to go against the trend on La Gomera, now being the only mayor to be re-elected with his party gaining an absolute majority of the seats.

The results: Canary Islands local elections 2015

Click above to enlarge (Source: Gobierno de Canarias)

Above are the results of the elections to the Canary Islands parliament (2015 poll on left, 2011 results on the right). The outcome means that no party will be able to form a government on its own and soundings to produce a coalition government have already begun. 

The biggest loser in Sunday's poll were Spanish prime minister Rajoy's Partido Popular and the biggest winners were the Podemos movement who didn't even exist when voters went to cast their votes in the last local elections. They did well all across Spain and now won 15% of the votes in the Canaries. Also new in the Canary Islands' parliament is the party of long-time Gomeran president Casimiro Curbelo, who after failing to win a nomination from his former PSOE party, quickly founded a new one called ASG (Gomera Socialist Group) and won 3 of the 4 seats that will represent La Gomera in the Canarian parliament, and these three seats his former PSOE would have needed now.

More about the ASG and their landslide victory in La Gomera soon...

The Great Fiesta

The religious fiestas in the Canaries are too numerous to mention, and peak during the summer months.
Here in Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera it is no different, but a special fiesta of our local saint 'Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes' is starting today and will continue until the 7th of January 2013 ! 'Los Reyes' (Epiphany) also is the celebration of Christmas in the Canaries and X-mas  presents are given on that day, Jan. 6th. 
This year It is the 'bajada' which is celebrated only every 5 years and means that the statue of the saint is going to be taken from the church to be processed through every hamlet and part of the parish and staying temporarily in many different locations. The processions are noisy affairs with loud firecrackers being shot into the air along the way. A traditional dance is being performed by many worshippers during the processions, accompanied by 'chacarras y tambores', the former being a locally made very large type of castanets, of which there is a 'male' and a 'female', the 'female' having a slightly higher pitch. 

Procession passing Las Orijamas,Valle Gran Rey, 2008

The 'tambores' are homemade goatskin drums with a muted snare sound.The percussion beats a steady, restrained rhythm that could put you almost into a trance.To all this the participants chant a repetitive song that has a distinctly North African feel and probably originates in pre-Christian times. So the processions go from place to place, stopping here and there for prayers, followed by shouts of 'VIVA...'

The 'ramo'

 Ahead of the processions, and even ahead of the statue of the saint, the 'ramo' is being carried which is an artfully bound bouquet of fruit and vegetables of considerable weight,and even the fabrication of this offering is celebrated with music, food and drink by the volunteers and onlookers. 

'Chacarras y tambores'

Culture aside, the fiesta is a perfect occasion for just having a good time. The secular parts of the proceedings usually begin after mass and mostly start with Canarian folk music followed on stage by salsa and merengue bands  who play for the dancers and revellers until the early hours of the morning through professional (and loud) sound equipment, often even until the sun has risen. Stalls serve food and drink throughout the proceedings and young and old are having a party.
The main program for the 'bajada' 2012/13 can be found on this page (look for 'descargar programa'): http://www.vallegranrey.es/es/component/eventlist/details/480-vi-bajada-de-la-virgen-de-los-reyes.html

Bangers going off in the valley

Church 'Ermita de los Reyes'

Idyllic setting, but mind your step coming
 down the steep path after a night's  dr...ancing.

Worship

Note: All photos in this post
        were taken during the
      last 'bajada' in 2007/8

Caution when driving in Spain !

The police officers association AUGC have complained today that their members are being pressurised into dishing out more traffic fines in the Canary Islands. Last year saw a sharp drop in fines and the association reckons this is due to a significant reduction in traffic on the roads and more cautious drivers - all due due to the economic crisis and high unemployment rates of up to 33% in the Canaries. They say that after a recent visit of the general commander of the Guardia Civil traffic section to these islands, members of the force received letters stating that they have to 'increase productivity' (i.e. more fines) or face a deduction of 240 Euros of complementary payments from their salaries. The police association complains that through this 'disgraceful practice' their officers will become 'mere tax collectors instead of guarantors of road safety in the archipelago' ...and on the Spanish Peninsula the same applies, I presume. Considering that the traffic police already have a reputation for nit-picking and handing out fines at will, this latest 'initiative from above' will surely cause a fair amount of head shaking in these parts.
You have been warned !

La Gomera now UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve

Yesterday the whole island of La Gomera was awarded the certification as UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. To quote UNESCO:
'La Gomera, Spain, is part of the Canary archipelago, situated in a central location surrounded by the Tenerife, La Palma and El Hierro islands. The Garajonay National Park is located in the central part of the island. It maximum height is 1,487 m (Alto de Garajonay). However the central plateau (1,000 meters of altitude) and the formation of radial and deep ravines is the result of intense erosion. It provides an exceptional landscape. The humidity and the cloud from the sea is often stopped on this plateau and produces a “sea of clouds” effect. The park is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and is noted for its laurisilva rainforest ecosystem.  The landscape is also modelled by agricultural terraces that have strong cultural significance.'

Congratulations and truly deserved !

Warnings extended in Canary Islands

After a relatively calm night with a much clearer sky, another band of showers is moving in from southwest. Weather warnings have been extended until this afternoon:

Showers (some heavy), isolated thunderstorms and strong and gusty winds on high ground are all imminent !

It is beginning to rain as I write in Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera.

Satellite picture :

For history, details and development of this weather situation go to my previous post : Hurricane Sandy indirectly affecting Canary Islands

Updates:

#1  ( 5 pm):

The Spanish met. office (AEMET) has cancelled nearly all warnings in the Canaries (except for the island of La Palma and the mountain regions of Tenerife) up to and including Saturday.

The Canarian Society for Metereology (ACM), however has released a red alert warning of isolated thunderstorms, heavy showers, and strong and gusty winds in and near the mountains - with the western Canaries most at risk.I would take their advice and remain cautious.

The low to the west of the Canary Islands is still in place and slowly approaching, but It will eventually begin to gradually fill and weaken during its approach. It will still affect our weather negatively until Sunday at least, however.

The weather here on La Gomera today has been a mix of scattered moderate showers, moderate winds (stronger in the mountains) and some sunny spells. The temperature remains fairly high for this type of weather at around 25ºC.

There are no reports of any significant incidents, but roads and paths remain dangerous with lots of debris being reported. Lots of crews are out on this public holiday clearing roads and blocked drains.

Enhanced Satellite image of late this afternoon. (NOAA)

#2   ( 8 pm):

It has been raining moderately for the past 45 minutes and 

as you can see on the rainfall radar, the band of showers

has reached the Canary Islands and La Gomera cannot be

seen under the rain reflection on the screen, As I write the rain is increasing ...
...and 10 minutes later decreases to light...

#3   ( 10:15 pm):

Heavy rain has been falling in Valle Gran Rey

for the past 30 minutes and visibility is 

greatly reduced. 

All observations show that cells of heavy precipitacion 

have developed very rapidly to the SW and have reached 

the SW of the Canary Islands.

#4    ( 01/11/12 - 11:45 pm ):

There's no let-up ! Still raining quite strongly, and the

barranco (a normally dry riverbed on the floor of the

 valley) is like a river in spate now.

The heavy rain has reached many parts of Tenerife now, not to mention the island of El Hierro.
... ah yes, the spanish official weather service under the Madrid ministry for the environment (etc.) has woken up to the facts on this holiday and has issued a rain warning again.




#5   (02/11/12 - 1:30 am)

It is still raining in Valle Gran 
Rey and many parts of the western Canaries. 
In Valle Gran Rey we're possibly
a bit more worried because 71 years ago on Halloween 1941 there was an event locally referred to as 'the great flood',when torrential rain did a lot of damage here and in other parts of the island. Lives and livestock were lost and to this day the event is regularly remembered and discussed.

During yesterday some places in the western islands registered between 50 and 100 litres/m2 of rain already.

On the right the 'rainbow' satellite picture taken at midnight (Meteosat/NOAA)


#6  (02/11/12 - 3:30 am):

Still raining and now there's a thunderstorm not too far 
away in the southwest with a very low rumbling thunder.

This radar screenshot on the right shows the accumulated precipitation for the past six hours. El Hierro as well as parts of Tenerife got most of it, with La Gomera showing the highest amount.



#7...at 7 am  (02/11/12)

...still raining, but there was very little wind all night where I live. There were a good few rockfalls during the past few hours and the thunderstorm lasted for more than an hour, but discharged mostly over the sea. The rain was mainly moderate, but quite heavy at times.


A big bulldozer went up the mountain on themain road in the dead of night - probably to clear the road of rocks and debris.                                                                        

The three images are basically the same satellite picture

taken at 6 am from Eumetsat but have undergone different
enhancements by NOAA to allow a more precise interpretation.
On the top right is 'infrared 2', below that is 'avn' (used for aviation), and at the bottom right water vapour is shown more clearly.
Anyway all three testify that there is still plenty of development taking place when compared with previous images.





All images can be clicked to enlarge 





 

The rain just now has become very

light, and later today the weather should

improve considerably - but CAUTION: there remains a risk of sudden changes. 

#8  at 8:30 am  (02/11/12):

...you might have guessed it: Rain is lashing down again after a brief respite and another thunderstorm can be heard approaching from SW.

The 'barranco' during the pause in the rain early this morning

More bands of precipitation moving in from SW  (8:20 am)

#9  at  10:30 am  (02/11/12):

The rain has stopped for the time being here in Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera and the sky is still overcast but much brighter.
Rain is however being reported from other areas in the Canaries and more rain in the form of showers is forecast for the next couple of days, but more breaks are likely. With the almost tropical air coming up from the SW the temperature should remain pleasantly high. ACM have just lowered their alert level from red to orange, while AEMET have issued yellow warnings for wind and rain from today and until Sunday.

Ports and airports are operating normally and no significant incidents were reported.
Locals are welcoming the rain like an early Christmas present !

The type of weather (warm + humid) we're having should help the fungi and mushrooms in the forest of the national park to grow again, like this one spotted a couple of days ago growing on the trunk of a tree ^ - with a worm (on the top left) having a feast.



#10  at  1:25 pm (02/11/12):

It is starting again - a thunderstorm is fairly close to La Gomera,getting closer every minute, and rain of large drops is falling. 

Radar image taken at 1:10 pm

#11  at 5:45 pm  (02/11/12):

Well, well, well - since the last update I was 'out and about' a lot and had to witness a 
cloudburst, of such intensity and duration - so locals tell me - that hasn't happened since 1975. 
I'm soaked to the bone, just arrived home tired, hungry and wet, with gigabytes of poor quality visual footage to sort out, information from the 'elders' to mull over, after discussing historical weather events with local farmers and fishermen while humouring disgruntled and stuck tourists. In short: I could write an illustrated book about the past few hours...
So please bear with me and maybe you won't be disappointed. It just might take some (?) more time, if I don't just collapse with fatigue.
Hope to see you later...
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