No public fiesta

For obvious reasons the main fiesta in Valle Gran Rey around Epiphany, which is always celebrated at the chapel above El Guro, will be closed to the public and the popular all-night dancing, etc., has been cancelled. Only the religious part of the fiesta is being held with a select few participants on January 6th and 7th 2021, and can be followed by the public on the town hall's Facebook page. 

Above is an image which I took during the procession around the church in El Guro in 2018, when this spectacle was still being followed by music and general merriment until the early hours of next morning. To find out more about this important fiesta and how it is being celebrated in normal times read 'The Great Fiesta' (click)...

Epiphany fiesta programme 2019

In Spain and some Latin American countries, the 6th of January is called El Día de los Reyes (The Day of the Kings). It marks the day when the Three Kings or Magi, as related in the second chapter of the gospel of Matthew, arrived to worship and bring their gifts to the baby Jesus after following a star in the sky.  In Spanish tradition on January 6th (Epiphany) the kings  Melchior, Gaspar, and Balthazar (representing Arabia, the Orient, and Africa) arrived on horse, camel and elephant, bringing respectively gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus. Children (and many adults) polish and leave their shoes ready for the Kings' presents before they go to bed on the eve of January 6. The next morning presents will appear under their shoes as the kings  take the role of Santa Claus here. Most towns in Spain arrange colorful parades representing the arrival of the Reyes Magos to town a day or two before, so children can see them on their camels or carriages and hand them letters listing their wishes.  Wine, snacks, fruit and milk are left for the Kings and their camels. In Spain, children typically receive presents on this day, rather than on Christmas day, though this tradition has changed a bit in recent years, and children now receive presents on both days.

In Valle Gran Rey the Kings begin their tour in the mountain village of Las Hayas on Jan. 5th at late afternoon and then continue through all the villages and barrios of the valley to collect the letters addressed to them with their wish list.

V.G.R.'s oldest church is in El Guro and dedicated to Los Reyes. Every year the Fiesta de Los Reyes in honour of them takes place there and this year the proceedings begin on Jan. 6th when the 'Ramo' (an elaborate offering of local agricultural produce) is made in the morning at the cultural centre in La Calera, from where the procession to the chapel of Los Reyes starts at midday with the typical dance steps and chants. After arrival there's a mass in the chapel in El Guro followed by folk music and later dancing to the usual salsa bands and general partying until the early hours of the following day. The usual food and drink stalls will have plenty of stock...

The great fiesta is over

After a final few rounds anticlockwise around the idyllically-situated chapel in El Guro (below) in Valle Gran Rey, the statue of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes (above) is now back home inside her sanctuary, ending a month of processions, festivities and fiestas. The images were taken on Saturday Dec. 6th 2018 which is the most important day of this Bajada, which is celebrated every five years. The prayers were heard and a few light showers ensued, but the ragged-looking bunting shows how windy it was over the past weekend.

New crown, new year

As part of the VII Bajada Fiestas, the statue of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes receiced a new golden crown during the open air mass before the folklore festival at the bus station yesterday. A first for me: 'Attending' mass while drinking beer at the bar, from where I took these images.

By the way, the main New Year's Eve fiesta of Valle Gran Rey takes place in La Playa this year. There are fiestas to count in the new year in the main towns of all the municipal areas of La Gomera with the usual salsa bands and open air dancing tonight, but there will be lots of other parties, too...

Yesterday's open air mass

Folk Fiesta

This Saturday, 30th Dec. 2017, there will be a day of Canary Islands folk music held in honour of Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes with four participating folklore groups from Tenerife, Lanzarote, and La Gomera and is part of the VII Bajada fiesta. The event is free of charge and will start around midday behind the bus station near the bridge in La Calera, Valle Gran Rey.

...and she's going down again

The great fiesta continues and so do the processions. Just a short while ago Nuestra Sñora de Los Reyes passed over the bridge in Valle Gran Rey to spend a while in the lower parts of the valley east of it, continuing her BAJADA of 2017/18 program (click for more). Apologies for the poor quality mobile phone images.

Bang, bang, here she comes

After having been processed through all the mountain villages of Valle Gran Rey, Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes arrived back in the lower Valley last night where she will have a well deserved rest in the little chapel in El Chorro (La Calera)  before continuing down to the next large fiesta in La Playa. All is part of the bajada, the great fiesta which goes on until Jan. 8th 2018. As usual, there was a feast spread out for all those attending the event and exploding rockets illuminated the night sky, welcoming her with with loud bangs amplified by the surrounding cliffs. Sorry about the shaky image, but more rockets were exploding close behind me...

The great fiesta begins

...here in Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera with a special fiesta of our patron saint 'Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes' in earnest this weekend and will continue until the 7th of January 2018 ! 'Los Reyes' (Epiphany) is also the celebration of Christmas in the Canaries and X-mas presents are given on that day, Jan. 6th. 

This year It is the 'bajada' which is celebrated only every 5 years and means that the image and the statue of the saint is going to be taken from the church in El Guro to be processed through every hamlet and part of the parish and staying temporarily in many different churches and chapels. Some associated events like a torch run have already taken place in preparation for the month-long event.

The processions are noisy affairs with loud firecrackers being shot into the air along the route. A traditional dance is being performed by many worshippers during the processions, accompanied by 'chacaras y tambores', the former being a locally made very large type of castanets, of which there is a 'male' and a 'female', the 'female' having a slightly higher pitch. The 'tambores' are homemade goatskin drums with a muted snare sound.The percussion beats a steady, restrained rhythm that could put you almost into a trance.To all this the participants chant a repetitive song that has a distinctly North African feel and probably originates in pre-Christian times. So the processions go from place to place, stopping here and there for prayers, followed by shouts of 'VIVA...'

Ahead of the processions, and even ahead of the statue of the saint, the 'ramo' is being carried which is an artfully bound bouquet of fruit and vegetables of considerable weight, and even the fabrication of this offering is celebrated with music, food and drink by the volunteers and onlookers. 

Culture aside, the fiesta is a perfect occasion for just having a good time. The secular parts of the proceedings usually begin after mass and mostly start with Canarian folk music followed on stage by salsa and merengue bands  who play for the dancers and revellers until the early hours of the morning through professional (and loud) sound equipment, often even until the sun has risen. Stalls serve food and drink throughout the proceedings and young and old are having a party.

The main programme for the 'bajada' 2017/18 can be found here: VII Bajada

Festival 'Atlantico Sonoro' 2017

The 13th edition of the festival 'Atlantico Sonoro' is taking place in the town of Vallehermoso on La Gomera this Friday and Saturday, Sept. 22nd and 23rd 2017

On Friday the Festival begins in the town square with a dance and acrobatics spectacle at 9 pm, followed by live music. On Saturday  from 11am there will be a wide range of demonstrations and workshops of alternative therapies, massage, yoga, music, percussion, dance and much more. At night there will be a concert from 10 pm  with two live bands. All the events are free of charge. More details here: www.atlanticosonoro.com

Live music returning to Valle Gran Rey

Guitars are for playing - not shelving !
...nice idea, though, spotted in a bar in V.G.R.

There's been a notable and most welcome increase in small live music gigs all around Valle Gran Rrey on La Gomera lately. Some bars such as 'Ramiro's' at the bus station in La Calera, the Cacatua in Vueltas, Manolo's bar 'Teguerguenche' in La Puntilla and the Gomera Lounge in La Playa (they even invested in sound proofing) are hosting live music fairly regularly again and other bars and restaurants have followed suit. La Gomera's best and most eclectic live venue is once again the social club 'Casa La Familia' where they now hold concerts and spontaneous sessions as private parties, but all are welcome to attend and become members for the night. This cosmopolitan place is just off the main track towards the statue along the beach in La Playa, up a bit beside a rough looking builder's yard. Their facebook page usually lists the main events and highlights the bohemian atmosphere with a distinct 70's hippy touch. You never know what may happen there musically, and a few years ago I met a well known jazz musician from the US who joined an impromptu session in dusty Casa La Familia in his expensive suit and was very happy to have found live music in those days when it had almost died here due to the repressive interpretation of some regulations which made it almost impossible to play music.

Local musicians still find it hard though to get paying gigs and legendary music bar and meeting place Bar Maria is still closed and for sale. Also some bars and venues remain fearful of a sometimes over-enforced law and/or punctilious and jealous  neighbours.

The once very promising Valle Luna Festival is still not happening officially again this year, but many musicians and groups such as the 'Gomera Street Band' will descend into Valle Gran Rey in February again this year and will surely find spots and venues to treat us to their performances. 

Overall it appears that the situation has greatly improved but it still is not back to the times when the slogan for the island was 'La Gomera es Musica !'. It is time to take the dust off the 'Musicians Welcome' signs - after all it simply is good business and most tourists and visitors are forever asking for live music.

We're keeping our fingers crossed while enjoying a bit of music again...

I've newly included an Events tab in my menu bar above. This will direct you to a website listing some events on La Gomera. It is not a complete list of events here and i found it to contain some errors (e.g. location of bars, etc), but hopefully they will correct that and improve this welcome service. 

Dancing in the dust

Live music is making a bit of a comeback in Valle Gran Rey these days after a long musical drought. There are quite a few events taking place in various venues. Last night the ska band Skazz from Ireland were playing in the sociocultural centre Casa La Familia to a very large enthusiastic crowd of tourists, who were dancing in the dust of the unpaved grounds in their fashionable footwear alongside barefooted hippies. Casa La Familia is a private initiative where homeless people are given food and shelter and it is the best venue by far for live music on La Gomera. It is in the walled yard of a former car rental premises, set back a bit from the coast road between La Playa and La Puntilla, where there are no neighbours to complain about the music. It has some of the old 'La Gomera hippy vibe', but attracts many well-dressed tourists who are looking for something special. Their fantastic generosity and support keeps the place going and the musicians who pass the hat around playing. Last night there were visitors from at least a dozen countries all having a wonderfully good time - see short video.

Regular La Gomera visitors Skazz will be playing at 'Salsa Burger' in La Playa tonight at 8pm, on Tuesday Jan 20th they'll do an acoustic gig in the new 'Cafe del Sol' in the harbour village of Vueltas, and on Sat. 24th of January amplified again in Casa La Familia at 9pm.

               Peter, the charismatic Skazz trumpet player who can sing like 'Satchmo', in action last night.

5th Valle Luna Festival 2014

Despite all the odds and the total lack of support by the authorities, this year's edition of the Valle Luna Festival has attracted many musicians and visitors. Most accommodation in Valle Gran Rey is completely booked up for the duration of the festival. The popular event is on a much smaller scale this year, but music can be enjoyed free of charge in many places. Below are just a few impressions.

Big party on Christmas Eve

There was a super party on La Gomera on Christmas Eve. Although privately organised, the party was open to all and locals and visitors alike danced the night away to several DJs. It definitely was a welcome change to singing 'Silent Night'. Thanks, guys, and hopefully the same again on New Year's Eve! 

Mother of all fiestas on La Gomera

Programme

After countless fiestas over the summer and one major celebration (Alajero) ongoing, now is the time for the 'big one' to begin. This is the Fiestas Lustrales, when the island saint Virgen de Guadalupe is going on a procession to every community on the island. This event happenes only once every five years and is called a 'bajada'. There are numerous religious, sports, cultural and popular events taking place to mark the occasion. The programme is stretched over a period of three months (!), starting tomorrow and finishin on December 14th when the Virgen de Guadalupe returns home to the peace and quiet of her little chapel by the sea at a remote beach north of the capital. Some events will even be shown on TV and thousands are expected to travel here to attend. In the island's capital San Sebastian de la Gomera it will be difficult to find accommodation for the main events. Due to the financial crisis this year's programme is not quite as ambitious as that of the last Fiestas Lustrales in 2008. That time even international top acts like Alpha Blondie

Alpha Blondie, La Gomera '08

were seen on La Gomera between gigs in New York and Paris. However this year's programme will see another good reggae night with two bands, several folklore music events, classical, rock and pop, world music and the ubiquitous salsa music nights. All that is framed by art events, exhibitions, fairs, sports events, etc.,etc, and topped up with a massive fireworks display. 
...and I forgot to mention that another fiesta runs for 10 days from Sat., Sept.14th 2013, in Agulo. You just can't keep up with all of them...

DJ roadshow coming to La Gomera

Click to enlarge

The well known Tenerife disco chain 'Nooctua' is bringing their DJ roadshow 'We love Nooctua' to La Gomera again for a big event in the harbour of Valle Gran Rey this Saturday, August 3rd 2013, from 10pm. Last year the event proved very popular with over 1.500 punters attending, many opting for the 'VIP tickets' which include a free bar all night. 

Festival 'Atlantico Sonoro'

The 9th edition of the festival 'Atlantico Sonoro' is taking place in the town of Vallehermoso on La Gomera this Saturday, July 27th 2013. All day from 11am there will be a wide range of demonstrations and workshops of alternative therapies, massage, yoga, music, percussion, and many more. Tradtional Gomeran skills such as El Silbo whistling and traditional pottery will also be shown and taught - most take place in the beautiful location of the 16.000 sqm botanical garden near Vallehermoso (on the road to the sea). At night there will be a concert on the town square with an interesting dance and music group called 'Terekitetap' starting at 9.30pm, followed by a Bob Marley tribute band called 'One Love'. All activities are free of charge and all are welcome.

Click poster to enlarge

Fiesta in full swing

                        

Here are some impressions (click to enlarge) of yesterday's daytime proceedings during the 5-day Fiesta del Carmen in the harbour of Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera (see Fiesta time)

Fiesta time

Summer time is fiesta time in the Canary Islands and next week it is the turn of the 'Fiesta del Carmen' which is celebrated in many seaside towns, harbours and fishing villages. This fiesta involves a procession by boat and here in Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera, it is one of the major fiestas in the sheer endless fiesta calendar. It is celebrated in the port of Vueltas and lasts five days. The boat procession is on Tuesday, July 16th, from 5pm and you can join in the fun by just queueing for a place on one of the many participating boats, but be prepared to get wet - not only on the outside, 'cause the drink flows freely. There'll be a fireworks display in the harbour just before midnight on the same day, followed by salsa-dancing all night. Highlights on other days include children's amusements, a DJ night, folklore groups, etc. - click poster above.
For more about fiestas see my previous post The Great Fiesta

Full moon hike on La Gomera

The town of Vallehermoso on La Gomera's north-side  is organising a guided walk at night with the full moon for illumination this Saturday, May 25th, 2013. Participants will meet on the square in Vallehermoso at 8pm and will then be transferred to the mountains in the national park from where the walk will start at 'Pajaritos' (the only roundabout on the main road through the park) at an altitude of about 3500 feet. All are welcome to join.

Full moon walk on La Gomera

VALLE LUNA FESTIVAL 2014

The 5th edition of the popular Valle Luna Festival will definitely go ahead in 2014, according to members of the organising committee. The festival which suffered from a lack of funding for it's 4th edition is now being planned well ahead of the 2014 event and hopes for some form of funding and sponsorship for the 5th annual event are high. The dates for the 5th annual Valle Luna festival in Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera have already been set to allow visitors and artists more time to plan their stay on La Gomera. It will take place in February to include the second and the third weekend in February 2014, making it a 10-day event again. 
Watch this blog for further festival news.
UPDATE Dec. 18th, 2013:

The 5th edition of the Valle Luna Festival is in doubt again, due to new and costly insurance obligations, the lack of volunteers to to the legwork and the indifference of the local town hall. However, it is still hoped to have some form of festivities. Any volunteers and/or sponsors out there ?
UPDATE Jan. 13th, 2014:
The 5th Valle Luna Festival is going ahead, albeit as a minor event. Due to the lack of support and interest by the local administration and the restrictive and demanding new legislation which demands an elaborate emergency plan, security personnel and costly insurance for every event, it will now only be a bar festival. It is up to the restaurants and bars to organise their own events during the period from the second to the third weekend in February. However, it is hoped that even more musicians and artists will turn up this year. Maybe all should get together and protest against this new form of repression…
If the authorities had any sense, they would support this and many more events, because live music is very attractive to tourists and the musicians and other artists themselves already are an important segment of the paying customers. In Ireland the vibrant live music scene has become one of the main attractions besides the landscape and has helped to boost tourist numbers as well as adding quality to the tourism product. 
Artists and their audiences generally spend a lot more than hikers, but even early-rising hikers want to be entertained at least on some nights - but not necessarily by ear-splitting Miami-style pop-salsa until 6am. There's  too much of the latter and too little variety to be found here lately. Every day I get asked by visitors where to find live events and it is embarrassing to have to admit that there is very little, when everyone can see lots of tourists who are musicians walking around with their instruments.
Let's pARTy in February anyway !
See previous post on the live music situation on La Gomera with lots of comments.