Worth a visit

Above is the entrance to the very informative visitors centre at the northern fringe of Garajonay national park. This recently refurbished interpretative centre boasts many exhibits besides explaining La Gomera’s flora, fauna, geology, history, culture, crafts, customs, etc. There are regular screenings of documentaries in the small theatre off the courtyard in the back of the main building, and the friendly helpful staff speak English. There's also a small museum cottage, craft shops, gardens with labelled plants and lots more. The centre is located at Juego de Bolas above the village of Las Rosas and is called Centro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional del Garajonay (click for more info), but is just outside of the park itself. A definite must-see for visitors and fortunately still free of charge. There is also a coffee shop and bakery offering delicious traditional Gomeran treats, which is easy to find as there’s always a delicious sweet scent of baking wafting through the clear mountain air, and lots of birdlife around the area waiting for crumbs.

Note that on some afternoons it can get very busy with coach tours, but these don’t stay for long once they've visited the clean and ample toilet facilities.      

Centro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional del GarajonyCentro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional del GarajonyCentro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional del GarajonyCentro de Visitantes del Parque Nacional del Garajon

The Number One Bus

Linea 1 bus at platform number 1 in Valle Gran Rey's bus station (''Estacion de Guaguas'' at the bridge in La Calera), connecting the capital San Sebastian de La Gomera with the south-west and the mountain villages of Chipude, La Hayas and El Cercado. The 65 kms long journey with over 40 bus stops (depending on demand), costs just 5 €uros  and takes less than two hours. There are several stops in the national park and the bus also goes to the island's hospital. Please note that there is only the relevant bus station's departure time given and that you have to signal the bus to stop anywhere else. You also must ring the bell (the red button marked STOP) aboard just before your destination, but stops are not generally announced. Also worth noting is that a bus or coach is not called ''autobus'' as it is in Spain, but only known as a ''guagua'' (pronounced ''gwa-gwa'') in the Canary Islands. The routes, timetables and fares for the public bus company Guaguagomera can be found HERE...

Prettiest village of Spain officially is in La Gomera

 Seen from the 'Mirador de Abrante' viewpoint: Spain's most beautiful village is1000 feet below, and 

  the Atlantic ocean is a further 500 feet below La Gomera's historic and stunningly beautiful small town

I've always said it and several publications did same over many years: the prettiest village, or town as the locals would call it, in the Canary Islands and even all of Spain perches on La Gomera's north coast and is named Agulo. The village with its twin 'centres' sits close to and high above the rugged Atlantic coastline and offers spectacular views of neighbouring island Tenerife. 

The town and its municipal rural area is home to just over 1.000 residents and sits below sheer vertical cliffs with Garajonay national park above in the mountains. Agulo is best viewed first from the breathtaking viewpoint with a restaurant and glass-floored skywalk hanging onto the clifftop. However the serene town itself with its historic buildings and maze of narrow lanes is a must-explore and worth paying an extended visit. 

British daily 'The Times' earlier this year promoted the fact that Agulo has been officially selected as the prettiest village in all of Spain. They described the source of their article thus:

''...In a land of such bounty it’s not easy to pick Spain’s prettiest villages. There are 7,582 municipios with a population of 15,000 or fewer, and you could argue until las vacas come home over which has the most dramatic castle or most charming plaza, or conjures the best magic with flowers, water, sunshine and shade.   

Alternatively you could ask the experts. Founded in 2011 Los Pueblos Mas Bonitos de España is a highly selective association of villages deemed the nation’s prettiest. To be considered the community must have a population of 15,000 or fewer and have “an architectural or natural heritage” — in other words, it has to be pretty. It is then judged by the association according to 29 criteria, including “the harmony of windows, doors etc”, “the aesthetic treatment of overhead lines” and — crucially in the 21st century — “the existence of artisans”.

Those (villages, Ed.) that pass selection become part of a highly selective club that comprises just 105 members — or the top 1.4 per cent of all Spanish villages. ...''

Agulo won the Spanish title in 2022 and it's easy to see why. I nearly moved there when I first came to La Gomera, such were the charms of this town. There's little tourism and most visitors are day-trippers from Tenerife that you'll only see passing through around lunchtime. Most other times you'll have the beauty of the village almost to yourself.

By the way, Fyffes, the global fruit and fresh produce company headquartered in Ireland, once owned land and premises in and around Agulo from the late 1890's for many years. They grew bananas there and later tomatoes as well for export directly to Europe via packing facilities and a crane at a small beach and rocks just below Agulo town. 

Anyway, 'The Times' described Agulo as follows:

''1. Agulo, La Gomera

Eleven hairpins from a black rock beach and hidden in banana plantations amid an Escher-like confusion of terraces lies the village of Agulo. Such is the might of the surrounding topography, and the colonial beauty of its cobbled lower town, that you can feel at times that you’re in Peru. Come for the hiking on marked trails that offer views of Tenerife and El Teide, or through the rainforests of the Garajonay National Park. Choose carefully: some are Andean in scale. Stay dead centre in the historic Casa de la Oje. It’s basic, with sea views, but charming nonetheless.''

Here's more posts about Agulo and the spectacular viewpoint (click)...

                                                       © lagomera1.blogspot.com

New 2€ coin to feature La Gomera island

Since the end of January the Spanish national mint has begun producing commemorative two Euro coins which will not show the portrait of the king of Spain on the reverse side. Instead these new 2 Euros (above) will show La Gomera's emblematic and iconic Roque Agando (more here...) together with examples of the fauna in the island's 1.8 million years old laurisilva forest. Both can be found in Garajonay national park, the stunningly beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site which covers about 11% of the entire island, and to which the new coins are dedicated.

The Spanish king probably won't mind, as he has visited La Gomera and admired its national park on several occasions.

The new coinage will come into circulation ''in the first quarter of 2022'' according to the official decree issued two months ago, so keep your eyes on any 2 Euro pieces in your change from now on. This should also be of interest to numismatologists as the 2022 commemorative issue dedicated to La Gomera will be strictly limited in numbers by the national mint.

Temporary road closure (Updated)

The visitors centre will remain accessible from the northern main road through Las Rosas (above right)

The scenic road connecting the visitors centre in Juego de Bolas with the main road through the national park close to La Laguna Grande will be closed to all traffic in both directions from tomorrow Monday December 3rd 2018 until Friday from 8 am until 6 pm each day. The closure is due to resurfacing work and it is hoped that some restricted opening is possible from Wednesday 4 pm if work progresses well. Access to the visitors centre and the glass viewing platform Mirador de Abrante from the northern main road between Hermigua and Vallehermoso will not be affected.
UPDATE: The road closures have been extended until 6 pm Wednesday Dec. 12th 2018. However, this road will be open this Saturday and Sunday.

More praise for La Gomera

The article below appeared in 'Northern Ireland Travel News' (nitravelnews.com) a few days ago:

''La Gomera: Land of the Winter Sun

With only a few months until the summer rays give way to colder weather, you may be wondering about the best places to soak up some winter sun

Look no further than La Gomera, a Canary Island known for its vivid landscapes, black sand beaches and abundant nature. While there’s plenty to see and do, these suggestions are a great start to keep you coloured through the UK’s cold and grey season…

Retreats in Nature

Looking for a peaceful location to revive your love of nature? A hiking or yoga adventure is a wonderful way to do just that. La Gomera offers year-round retreats for those wishing to explore its untouched landscapes.

As you take in the sights, you can follow many hiking trails that criss-cross the terrain. Better yet, each marked path has a different degree of difficulty so you can discover the island at your own pace.

You can also opt for a local guide to lead you into the silver-clouded forest of Garajonay National Park. Not only does the UNESCO World Heritage Site brim with native wildlife, but its ancient scenery is also the perfect introduction to this spectacular little island.

Long Walks on the Shore

For many people, there is no better place than the beach, and La Gomera happens to be blessed with an abundance of them. Another bonus is the beautiful black sand, which provides a relaxing setting to residents and visitors alike.

Many Gomeran beaches are also away from the crowds and only accessible by foot, with clear waters and warm temperatures in winter. On the south coast, for example, Playa del Medio will tempt you with its soothing surf ­– just the thing for an easy day in the winter sun.

Meanwhile, Playa de la Caleta awaits a few minutes from the centre of Hermigua. This slice of paradise is considered the best beach on the north coast and has many convenient facilities nearby, such as restaurants, picnic areas and showers.

There are excellent choices if you’re travelling with kids this winter too. Charco del Conde in Valle Gran Rey is one of many family beaches that are sure to impress. Expect accessibility, cleanliness and a protected natural pool for all ages to swim in at high tide.

Nourishing Local Foods

Gastronomy gives people a direct window into culture – like all the Canary Islands, La Gomera features a variety of nourishing local seafood and healthy dishes to keep you warm and satisfied.

When visiting the green island, one can’t-miss dish is papas arrugudas. ‘Papas’ is the local term for potatoes, and because of the island’s volcanic climate, these potatoes gain a signature taste and texture.

The simple but delicious dish is boiled in water with salt then paired with a generous serving of rich mojo sauces. Mojo verde is bright green and refreshing, while Mojo picón is vibrant red and slightly spicy. Either way, you’re in for a savoury treat.

But when it comes to treats, palm syrup is the undisputed star of Gomeran cuisine. With more than 130,000 palm trees blanketing the island, La Gomera has the highest number of specimens per capita. What’s more, almost every restaurant serves desserts drizzled in the stuff. It’s also used to sweeten cocktails and add the final touch to meat and fish dishes.

If you’d like to keep a taste of La Gomera long after your holiday, you’ll be pleased to know that palm syrup is offered in almost any supermarket and craft fair – a fine purchase to take back as a souvenir.

Getting There

Fly into Tenerife and catch a 50-minute ferry to La Gomera. A short flight from Tenerife will get you there as well. Once you arrive, you can choose from a wide range of hotels as your home away from home this winter. Go to lagomera.travel/en for more information and winter sun ideas.''

Angela Merkel in La Gomera for sixth time

Merkel in La Gomera 2016 (Image: Darias/La Opinion)

German chancellor Angela Merkel , often dubbed ''the most powerful woman on earth'', was spending her Easter holidays in La Gomera once again, together with her husband Joachim Sauer. This is the now the sixth time she is spending her private and supposedly secret spring holidays on the island amid tight security. She is known to enjoy walking and exploring La Gomera's national park and ancient forest. She's also said to be fond of a local specialty called potaje de berros which is a soup made with watercress. The German chancellor arrived by ferry in La Gomera on Good Friday for a week's peace and quiet. The above image was snapped by a local couple who spotted Merkel by chance when taking some shots of nature in La Gomera's national park with their mobile phone in 2016 during one of the German leader's previous visits. It is said to be the only photo that was published of any of her visits to La Gomera and appeared in the Canary Islands daily La Opinion. The German chancellor was staying at the island's largest hotel among many average tourists and is reported to have enjoyed a normal relaxing holiday without much special attention

La Laguna Grande restaurant reopened

The restaurant and bar in La Laguna Grande during recent refurbishment work

The restaurant in the centre of the national park which had been closed for about a year, has been refurbished and reopened its doors to the public a couple of days ago. The clearing in the forest of La Laguna Grande is a popular spot for locals and visitors and there are public toilets to the right of the restaurant. The dining room has seating for 90 guests and offers a menu of food typical for La Gomera and there's a separate bar serving snacks and drinks. The building is the only one in the in the national park and owned by the municipality of Vallehermoso. After a tendering process the lease was won by the ferry company Fred. Olsen who also lease the restaurant at the spectacular Mirador de Abrante.

Roadworks progressing

The widening of the twisty stretch of main road to Valle Gran Rey just before arriving at the first houses of Arure village after leaving the national park, which is had been very narrow and dangerous, is progressing well. The major roadworks are ahead of schedule and the new road section should be finished early next year. However, until then you can expect delays at times during working hours as heavy machinery is at work. If you wanted to avoid this road you could take the minor and even more twisty road through Las Hayas. More...

New surface on main road in national park

The new surface at Raso de la Bruma in the forest of Garajonay national park on the main road known as GM-2, which is the main connection between the east and the west of La Gomera.

Major investment in La Gomera's national park

It has recently been announced that La Gomera's Garajonay national park will receive a further 2,1 million Euros in funding. The money will go towards conservation measures, the restoration of damaged and degraded areas, fire prevention, and general improvements.

German chancellor Merkel in La Gomera again

Merkel in La Gomera 2016 (Image: Darias/La Opinion)

German chancellor Angela Merkel is spending her Easter holidays in La Gomera again, together with her husband Joachim Sauer. This is the now the fifth time the 'world's most powerful woman' is spending her spring holidays on the island amid tight security. She is known to enjoy walking and exploring La Gomera's national park and ancient forest. She's also said to be fond of a local specialty called potaje de berros which is a soup made with watercress. The German chancellor arrived by ferry in La Gomera on Good Friday for a week's peace and quiet. The above image was snapped by a local couple who spotted Merkel by chance when taking some shots of nature in La Gomera's national park with their mobile phone during the German leader's last visit in 2016. It is said to be the only photo that was published of any of her five visits and appeared in the Canary Islands daily La Opinion. The German chancellor is staying at the island's largest hotel among many average tourists and is reported to be enjoying a normal relaxing holiday without much special attention.

Huge drinking water loss

Water tap in La Calera, Valle Gran Rey

In contrast to some of the other Canary Islands, La Gomera has an abundant supply of water. While the many open reservoirs are exclusively used for irrigation of the crops in summer, nearly all the drinking water and the domestic supply comes from wells and springs that produce water of excellent quality. Rainfall replenishes these, but the forest that covers the top of the island produces additional water when the mist and fog that are carried across the mountains by the trade winds condensate on the trees and percolate through the ground to feed the springs. 

However, the past winter brought very little rain to La Gomera and a recent survey revealed that half of La Gomera's drinking water available through the public water supply is lost and wasted because of an ageing and often faulty infrastructure. Measurements have shown that there are numerous leaks between source and households. The town of San Sebastian is now introducing 2.500 pressure reducing valves and diffusers in a measure which is expected to save 44.000 litres of precious water per day.

Other towns like Valle Gran Rey have also begun to replace old and leaking pipes, but it will take a long time until the full amount of water entering the distribution system will actually be contained within the grid and available to consumers. 

The water survey included water reservoirs and it was found that agriculture uses 82% of all available water, while about 18% is for human consumption, including the 6,3% used by the tourism sector. More than three quarters of all available water on the island of La Gomera comes from underground sources.

The island's capital San Sebastian is the only town so far which uses treated and purified waste water for the irrigation of its public parks and green areas, saving 0,6% of all available water. 

More details of dramatic rescue

The rescued  thanking their rescuers (Image: gomeranoticias.com)

More details have emerged of the dramatic rescue in the EL Rejo valley (see previous post). The two ladies are actually 23 years old and both are students from mainland Spain living in Tenerife. The had followed GPS instructions on their mobile phones when in the upper region of the El Rejo valley thinking their phones were showing them a shortcut to the main road through the valley after they had left the hiking path and became lost. One of them then slid about 20 metres down a steep incline and just managed to cling onto the branches of a tree above a vertical drop of 150 metres. The other girl tried to help her friend but ended up in a similar position above the gorge, also clinging to a tree. 

They had already called the emergency services on 112 at around 5 pm saying that they had left the path through the valley and were lost. They then tried to get to the main road before dark using the GPS service on their phones which subsequently lead them into their precarious trap. It was night by then and weather conditions were said to be adverse with high humidity and cold gusty winds, and they were beginning to suffer from exposure. 

A police helicopter from Tenerife set down three specially trained agents of the mountain police unit in the area in the early hours of the morning in 'very difficult conditions' who finally managed to locate the victims still clinging to the branches of trees above the gorge at around 04:20 am. At first light the rescuers began the laborious task of bringing the two ladies down the vertical drop of 150 metres to the bottom of the ravine in several stages with the aid of ropes and harnesses and from there a provisional path had been prepared to bring them to the waiting ambulance on the road where they arrived shaken but uninjured later that morning. Yesterday they visited the police headquarters in Santa Cruz de Tenerife to thank their rescuers.

Trapped hikers rescued with difficulty

Part of the El Rejo valley (Archive)

Two young tourists were brought to safety unharmed yesterday morning after an extended and difficult rescue operation in the northern fringes of La Gomera's national park. The two 22 year old ladies had become lost in the 'El Rejo' valley in the municipality of Hermigua the previous night at dusk and subsequently fell or slid down the mountainside into a position from where they couldn't find a way out. Luckily the remote location has mobile phone cover and they could call for help. The emergency services arrived and managed to locate the trapped hikers, but found they couldn't reach the victims due to the rough and dangerous terrain and lack of light. The stuck girls had to spend the night in their uncomfortable position, but food, etc., was dropped to them and mobile phone communication was maintained at all times. A special mountain unit of the Spanish police was sent from Tenerife and with the help of the local services as well as the national park's forestry department a provisional path had to be constructed to reach the stricken hikers at first light yesterday, and finally the laborious task of bringing them to safety succeeded.  The two victims were said to be unharmed but shaken by their ordeal.
SEE: UPDATE WITH MORE DETAILS

Road improvements near Arure

The village of Arure  (Archive)

The main road which leads through the mountain village of Arure and on to Valle Gran Rey is to be improved very soon. There is a stretch of road just before arriving at the first houses of Arure after leaving the national park which is currently very narrow with lots of dangerous bends where trucks and buses going in opposite directions can't even pass each other, often leading to delays and minor accidents. The added complication in this mountain area at about 3.000 ft altitude is the often reduced visibility due to mist and fog.

Now this length of road of about 1.300 metres is to be widened and the worst bends will be straightened to improve road safety. The government of the Canary Islands will spend 1,5 million Euros on the project and has already put the works out to tender with a stipulated time for execution of nine months. The sensitive environment so close to the national park will be respected by sticking as much as possible to the existing route and any palm trees that are in the way will be replanted close by. The works are badly needed on this busy road which is the main artery supplying Valle Gran Rey, the second most populous municipal area of La Gomera and the most visited by tourists. 

Rains force road closures

The steep and winding scenic road through 'EL Rejo' valley

Today's abundant rains have caused some traffic disruption in La Gomera. Apart from minor debris on the roads there was a larger landslide affecting the scenic 'El Rejo' road which connects the main north road and the main west road through the national park. This landslide is said to be not as significant as previous ones, but has forced the closure of this road past the volcanic cone of the same name. The road will be closed until further notice, pending the clearance of debris and a detailed inspection. For locals and visitors normally using this short-cut the closure means very long detours.

In San Sebastian the road past the main beach to the harbour called 'Avenida Maritima' is temporarily closed until flooding caused by heavy rain has subsided, which is expected to happen soon.

There were also flight delays at La Gomera's airport due to the rain and poor visibility.

UPDATE Thursday Feb. 16th 2017:

All roads are now open again, but caution is still advised as always after rain when the sun heats any remaining loose material which then expands and may fall onto roads and paths.

Avocado deserving laurels

Avocados are in season and La Gomera has a plentiful supply. I was given the monster in the picture above yesterday and it weighs 2,65 lbs. It is by no means the largest specimen I've come across here, and it comes from an avocado tree which isn't even fertilised, growing almost wild. The avocados in La Gomera are the best I've ever tasted and simply delicious. Most of the fruit here could be called 'organically grown' as nearly all of the avocado trees in La Gomera are left to themselves without being fertilised or sprayed. They do extremely well in the island's climate and soil, the only problem may be strong winds which can sometimes tear unripe fruit off the trees and diminish the harvest. 

The avocado (Persea Americana), originally from Mexico,  is a member of the Laurel family of trees. In the ancient forest in La Gomera's national park another member of the Laurel family, Persea Indica (locally called Viñatigo), is very common and the tallest tree in the Laurisilva woods. The two are closely related, but the Persea Indica which can grow in excess of 100 ft tall, contains a highly toxic alkaloid and should not be confused with another member of the Laurel family growing in La Gomera's forests which is Laurus Nobilis, the bay leaf tree. In all more than a dozen different varieties of the evergreen laurel have been growing for nearly two million years in what is now the island's national park.

The avocados grown in La Gomera come mainly in two varieties. The one pictured above is the more pear shaped type which has a smoother skin of shiny green colour. Its taste is very mild, light, creamy and it contains less fat than the second which is more rounded in shape. This one has a rougher, thicker and more wrinkled skin of dark geen-brown colour and is generally smaller than the former. Its taste is fuller and slightly nutty because of the higher fat content.

They're called 'aguacates' in Spanish and are grown here mostly for local consumption, available most of the year.

(B)utterly delicious and nutritious !

100 years of Spanish national parks

Today a ceremony at the Garajonay national park visitor's centre in Juego de Bolas at 10 am will mark 100 years since a legal foundation for Spain's national parks was laid, the first one in the world. As marcaespania puts it:

''According to history, or to those who write it down, it all began in Yellowstone, back in 1872. The US Government intended to protect this natural area by designating it as a National Park – the first of its kind. The practice was soon adopted in Canada, Australia, Sweden, Switzerland, Russia… It took longer for it to come to Spain, but it made its entry in style.

As various countries designated their own National Parks, Spain granted them legal protection by passing the first National Parks Act in the world at the request of Pedro José Pidal y Bernaldo de Quirós, Marquis of Villaviciosa de Asturias. Adopted by the Cortes Generales (the Spanish Congress), the law was sanctioned by King Alfonso XIII, coming into force on 8 December 1916.''

The Canary Islands are the region with the most national parks with four of a total of fifteen and Teide national park on Tenerife is the most visited, accounting for over 30% of all visitors to the 15 parks. 

La Gomera's 'Garajonay' national park is unique with its almost two million years old evergreen forest. The island's government is soon to take over ownership from the Spanish state and the long legal process for this change is well underway.

Location of the four national parks in the Canary Islands. Note: Garajonay is spelled wrong on map

Scenic El Rejo road now fully open again

Images taken a few weeks before the reopening

The spectacular mountain road past the volcanic cone of 'El Rejo' whichis popular with tourists and connects the main north road with the main west and south roads through the national park had been first closed after a landslide late 2014. It was partially reopened some time ago and after remedial works which are said to have cost nearly half a million Euros were finished recently the road is fully open to the public once again. For locals in the area the closure of this byroad had meant very long detours.