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Wednesday, November 13, 2013

White smoke in Playa Santiago: 'Habemos Hollywood'

WHITE SMOKE ! ONLY HOURS 'TILL MOVIE TAKE -OFF
Blubber boiler blowing test-smoke from the Essex
Commuter plane connection to La Gomera is in demand 
Early X-mas tree decoration for La Gomera
Working 'till dusk
Banana props - the donkeys'll be there soon
Ready to shoot, but this vacant flower pot is not part of the set
La Gomera is buzzing now, but retains its character
Properly propped-up

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Mirador de Abrante to get better access road


The spectacular Mirador de Abrante viewpoint and glass 'sky walk' platform will get a proper access road very soon. The government of La Gomera is planning works to the tune of 140.000 Euros to improve and surface the existing dirt track. The works include the provision of a car park and will take three months to complete, everything going well.
The cafeteria and information point in the building could open soon as well as the town hall of Agulo has put the catering contract out to tender.


Monday, November 11, 2013

Howard's Heart of the Sea ready to shoot in Canaries

The party is here, and the filming of scenes from a great book can begin here with a great crew, cast and director. La Gomera is lucky to host this very conscientious version of Hollywood hullabaloo. Hooray! …and yes, we know this and that, but we won't say anymore except that they all are surprisingly modest and 'environmentally friendly'. Well, on La Gomera they wouldn't last long if they weren't. Shooting will start shortly… and it won't be only Sundays anymore that I take shots. The photos below were taken last night @ sunset on everyone's day off.
And just let me reiterate: This film is NOT going to be ''a remake of Moby Dick'' as it is often referred to in the press and there won't be any whales painted white as some expect.
The true story of the whaler Essex was just one of a few that helped inspire Melville to write his fictional novel many years after the Essex tragedy. Melville himself (played by Ben Whishaw) will appear in the film In the Heart of the Sea. The Ron Howard film aims to tell the true story of 1820 as told in the historical book by N. Philbrick about the whaler Essex and its crew's epic fight for survival after their ageing ship had been badly damaged by a whale. It was the most talked-about tragedy at sea until the Titanic sank nearly 100 years later. However, it is true that scenes for the film Moby Dick directed by John Huston were shot on (and off) Madeira, as well as Youghal, Co.Cork, in Ireland and… in the Canary Islands (Gran Canaria). 
Let's just hope that 'In the Heart of the Sea' will succeed in rising above Melville's tale.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Strange bird sighted on La Gomera

The Canarian Beer Bottle Bird (Spinturnix Ampullae Canariensis)
Spotted recently at a local watering hole

Saturday, November 09, 2013

Video of work on film location

The video below by gomeratvdigital is showing the progress of  work on the film location in Playa Santiago, La Gomera, was published yesterday. Shooting of scenes for In the Heart of the Sea  directed by Ron Howard will begin soon...

Vueltas village: The plans

At a meeting with residents and business owners of the harbour village of Vueltas in Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera, the following plans of the island's government and the local administration for pedestrianisation and upgrading of the existing centre of the town were hotly discussed. The construction of phase one was said to take only eight months and vehicular access for residents and business is guaranteed at all times. Click on images to enlarge.
Dark green: Pedestrian - Blue: Parks - Red: Two way traffic - Black:Restricted
one way traffic Orange: Existing pedestrian lanes - Dark red: New parking 
Grey zones 4 and 5 will remain parking initially - later to be
transformed into parks when additional parking (blue) is created
Paving and levelling
Proposed street furniture, paving and trees 
Street lighting
Traffic flow during construction phases 1-3

Thursday, November 07, 2013

Stop Signs for Walkers

On La Gomera STOP signs have been introduced along many hiking paths - for walkers ! They warn you that to continue on your route you will have cross a road and to stop. Make sure your feet don't move for a couple of seconds, check that the road is clear to cross, then put the hiking boots back into first gear, clutch in, accelerate and cross the road swiftly while keeping the fingers crossed that you've done it all correctly.
Stop sign for walkers on La Gomera, Canary Islands

Wednesday, November 06, 2013

Fisherman bitten by shark

The fishing harbour of Vueltas in Valle Gran Rey

A fisherman was bitten by a shark at sea about 22 miles off the harbour of Valle Gran Rey on La Gomera yesterday. The incident happened when the man in his thirties apparently had caught the shark by accident and was trying to get rid of it in the early morning. He received leg injuries and had to be transferred to La Gomera's hospital after having been treated first in the local health centre. He is said to be recovering well after his ordeal.
Shark bites generally are VERY RARE in these waters and this was just an isolated accident.

La Gomera popular cruise ship destination

Aida Vita approaching La Gomera at sunrise yesterday

La Gomera is becoming increasingly popular as a destination for cruise ships and for the current season about 85 cruise liners have included the island in their itineraries.  La Gomera has received the highest marks by passengers  over the past couple of years and the same was achieved for the shore excursions. The photos were taken yesterday when the Aida Vita paid us a visit. 
Exploring La Gomera's beauty (left: Roque Agando)


Tuesday, November 05, 2013

A good harvest

Potatoes and giant yellow courgette (note size
of the cigarette box) in a bar on La Gomera 
'Family-sized' (2,5 ft) gourds spotted in a local restaurant

Sunday, November 03, 2013

First decent rain

I was woken early this morning by the first decent shower this winter season and for today, Sunday there is a warning of showers that may be heavy and accompanied by thunderstorms. The temperature today will be down a bit on recent values, but should recover tomorrow with more sunny weather.
Rain radar early this morning

Thunderstorms forming just south of Canaries


Hotel Gran Rey webcam showing a fairly grey morning
at about 9:15am. Tomorrow it should be sunny again.

Saturday, November 02, 2013

Friday, November 01, 2013

Harbour town of Vueltas to get overdue revamp

'Vueltas-on-Sea'
The ever-popular cosmopolitan and bohemian harbour town of Vueltas in Valle Gran Rey   which boasts the area's only safe sandy beach and offers quirky shops, cafes, bars and restaurants while fishermen go about their daily business, is finally to get a long-overdue revamp with complete pedestrianisation of its central main road from the harbour to the top of the town.Today it still presents itself in a fairly neglected state with hardly any street lights, no litter bins and very little greenery. The pavements are too elevated and  constricted, forming an obstacle course that forces pedestrians onto the narrow road. Prams and wheelchairs can't be navigated at all on the pavements and the general state of the infrastructures is one of decay and disorganisation while all the other towns on La Gomera have had a facelift in recent years. 
Plans for the future
At a recent meeting in a local hotel plans for a major overhaul of the town centre were unveiled with the promise of a solid injection of funds, which were said to be available immediately so that work could begin very soon. Residents and business owners will be consulted and can make further proposals for amendments. On the plans it all looked very attractive, showing a pedestrianised road  with very nice level paving, street furniture, lighting, trees, shrubs and flowers. This is planned for phase one which will maintain car access for residents to the existing central car park, which will later be turned into a green town park when more car parking on the nearby vacant harbour plot will have been created. This huge area easily accommodated all the vehicles of the 5.000 evacuees during the fire last year
Restricted traffic of delivery vehicles and residents,etc., will continue to be allowed in the town's central road except for a short stretch of road now connecting the banana co-op's building and the harbour, which will become more like a plaza. In all the pedestrianised and traffic-calmed  areas bars and restaurants will be able to place seating outside of their premises  and this will add to the flair of the area. 
Further plans include the creation of another green area around where the bunker-like disused water tank now stands . The fishing harbour area, the fisherman's co-op building and the main access road from the roundabout will all get a revamp at another stage of the development which incorporates new buildings for ticket offices, etc and the fisherman's bar and public toilets.
Laudable initiative
Additionally there is a campaign by politicians to get the authorities to finish the extended outer harbour and to allocate funds for 2014 to tidy up the existing harbour facilities, so that it can accommodate smaller cruise ships and lose its disused and neglected image. The reality now is that the new harbour is silting-up because it lacks the final protective extension and it had to be dredged once already, having lost up to 10ft depth in places at the south-eastern side of the new pier.
All the new plans are very laudable and the final result will be worth the little bit of disruption and noise during the construction period which is said to take only about one year for completion of the first phase. Now is the time to invest to create jobs and plan for the future. Vueltas port is on the trade wind route to the Americas as navigated by Columbus and La Gomera's by-name is La Isla Columbina.
Plenty of sea room for all types
All what's missing now to give Vueltas the standing it deserves and to bring back the bustling life it had at the end of the last century are more positive news that ferries re-connect the harbour and that the badly needed but hotly discussed marina will soon become a reality. I know of several yacht owners who would gladly move their fine boats for longer periods to a safe marina in Valle Gran Rey. Having moored friends' yachts here, let me tell you that currently it isn't very comfortable, to put it mildly, and for all the trouble you have to pay almost the same harbour dues as for a luxury marina with all amenities not too far away. Present conditions might suit the 'hippie boats' but are not to the liking of serious sailors, as they prefer to have a shower and and a power connection before or after spending a long time at sea. For longer stays there simply isn't a safe berth when there's a swell running and even when the skipper has rented an apartment with harbour view he has to be almost constantly on watch even in mildly poor weather. A marina would remedy all that and it would provide a lot of new employment while giving existing business more income. I know many local fishermen who'd prefer the comforts of a safe pontoon berth, too, but for others it presents a threat to to their accustomed routine. There's enough sea room here for both types of sailors. 
The formerly envisaged protected artificial beach from the roundabout to the new pier is another vision that now has been almost forgotten, but it would certainly pay off if it was installed. The natural beach is often overcrowded and some don't like the smell of fish and diesel from the fishing boats, no matter how clear and clean the water is at times.
I meet first-time visitors to this town almost daily and they can see the potential for pulchritude, whereas sadly some long-time resident blow-ins pine for the romantic rural past and detest any change. The latter  tend to forget that their places of origin have since moved with the times, too, and that they themselves have contributed to many changes here.
For my part I definitely couldn't care less about the politics, but I just love bustling ports with the smell of fish and a whiff of the whole wide world which hangs about harbours.
I rest my case.
UPDATE with plans: Vueltas village: The plans
Vueltas port in Valle Gran Rey: The finishing of the outer harbour and a marina are long overdue as well

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Hola Halloween

... or All Saints, Hallowe'en, All Hallow Even, (Celtic) Samhain... now being marketed as a silly horror show.
Enhanced section of original 'cARTon' by resident artist © PERO 

Study to turn lighthouses into hotels

The harbour authority of the Spanish government which administers lighthouses around the coast is to study the possibility to turn lighthouses in the Canary Islands into small hotels. La Gomera's president has welcomed the 'interesting' initiative. There is a beautiful lighthouse, the Faro San Cristobal, near San Sebastian de La Gomera which would lend itself to conversion. This lighthouse still operates but  like most European lighthouses it now runs automatically and doesn't need keepers anymore. The substantial keepers' quarters, offices and stores would make a nice boutique hotel. In Ireland several lighthouses have already been successfully converted into B+B's and ho(s)tels and recently the Irish government has announced the conversion of another 30 lighthouses. The idea would suit La Gomera and could be successful here as well.
...would make a hotel with spectacular views.
Faro San Cristobal on La Gomera...

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

News: Garajonay Express proposes ferry connection

Garajonay Express arriving in Valle Gran Rey in the good ol' days. 
Great news just in: The ferry line Garajonay Express which up to a few years ago covered the connection between the three La Gomera ports of Valle Gran Rey, Playa de Santiago, San Sebastian de La Gomera and then continued on to Los Cristianos on Tenerife wants to re-establish the same connection. This was announced today by the mayor of Valle Gran Rey, Miguel Angel Hernandez, who said that he has received a solid proposal by the same company which aims to sail the route twice daily seven days a week with a 250-passengers fast ferry.The company, according to well informed sources now with changes in shareholding, proposes a price for the journey from Valle Gran Rey to Los Cristianos of 33 Euros and from VGR to San Sebastian of just 12 Euros. These are presumably maximum prices without subsidies. No news as yet as to WHEN the service might begin - ALL here say: 'The sooner the better'. Keeping the fingers crossed I'll keep you posted...
+Update 30-10-13: 
The latest 'well informed rumours' say that a fast ferry boat for Garajonay Express is already on its way from Italy. 
+Update 31-10-13: 
The mayor of Valle Gran Rey has once again confirmed the proposal and has stated that all the company wants is the Canarian government's honouring of the 50% subsidy of prices for passengers resident in the Canaries and no harbour dues for the first three years of re-introducing  the service. He also said that the governments of La Gomera and of the Canary Islands should be up to date on the offer and that the Italian director of Garajonay Express had a meeting with officials of both authorities at the end of September already. 
Let's just hope this doesn't become a political football. The competing larger companies carry a lot of clout, too, and will undoubtedly lose some business if 'our' ferry runs again.
UPDATE 05-01-14:
The only news since my last update was that the company Garajonay Express have submitted their proposal for covering the service to the authorities together with a viability study. They have their (reasonable) pricing included and they have estimated that they would be employing 34 people. However the company is demanding that they'd be exempt from any harbour dues in the ports of Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey for at least the first year of service. One of the shareholders in the  company, Hector Cabrera, was quoted as saying 'We have one ferry already available and can supply another' and once given the green light by the authorities it would only take a month to begin sailings. 
It appears that it all depends on the Canarian government now...

UPDATE March 27th, 2014:
President confirms subsidies for La Gomera ferry

UPDATE Dec. 17th, 2014:

Frangipani seat

Spotted this bench under a fragrant Frangipani tree in La Calera, Valle Gran Rey,
La Gomera, which was decorated with the flowers by local children a few days ago.

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Lizard on Beans with Toast


All summer and into autumn young and newly-hatched lizards flit about at speed everywhere on La Gomera and they are very curious and inquisitive. They don't respect your home like their mature counterparts do and they use the tiniest opening to enter. Finding a way out again is a lot more difficult for them and often needs the gentle help and lots of patience of the evicting landlord. I just rediscovered some photos I took a few years ago when one of the little intruders had made it into a temptingly open pack of dry beans, only to discover that uncooked they were inedible. The smooth inner surface of the pack prevented escape until the noises in the cupboard were heard. Then first the failed robber's mugshot was taken and the case was mulled over. Finally the probation act was applied with subsequent release into freedom. Further, a crumb of toast was given because the little rascal hadn't got anything to eat in self-imposed captivity and was found completely exhausted from struggling with organic food.

Enjoying the view from your bean bag seat ?